MUSKOKA – The magic of Muskoka comes in a shiny, bright new package at JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka.
I’ve been around the world and have yet to find a place I’d rather spend a summer’s day in then Ontario’s Muskoka region. I get up to the lake district north of Toronto several times each summer, and the sights and sounds leave an indelible mark on my consciousness; the sun’s rays bouncing off the deep blue water, the dark and bright green trees that arise out of the tiniest moss and lichen-covered islands and the quiet, rhythmic “galumphing” sound the lake makes when it bumps against a dock or ancient outcroppings of Canadian Shield rock.
To me, this is one of the happiest places on this great earth of ours. And there are few places better to enjoy it than JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka Resort, a terrific resort/hotel perched high on a bluff overlooking the southern end of Lake Rosseau. Only two hours and change north of Toronto, it’s a marvellous retreat that combines luxurious surroundings, world-class amenities and a true sense of style with all the outdoor wonders that Muskoka offers up.
The property, which turns 10 years old in December of this year, has recently been given a major makeover. The public spaces are bright and open and a definite cut above the previous look, a much more welcoming feel but also a higher-end design that befits the JW Marriott brand.
The front desk now features a large panel with canoe paddles; a nice “sense of place” design I quite liked. The lobby area also has a cool, swirling wooden “bench” and a stunning, overhead light fixture that looks like a swarm of honeybees heading home to a swirling honeycomb in the sky.
The Muskoka Room has been given a glam makeover as well, with deep blue and gold accents and truly inventive hanging lamps that feature Muskoka maps inside the lampshade. I’ve been in a lot of hotels in a lot of cities around the world, and that’s a new one on me. As a Muskoka lover and a map freak, I was tempted to try to find a ladder and see if I could unscrew one of them from the ceiling and take it home.
The bar also has been given a major upgrade, with more open space and a massive television that was showing World Cup soccer when we were there.
Our room, located in the historic Paignton House building partway down the hill towards the lake, had soft green walls, with nice photos of fall leaves and canoes on the wall. We also had a fireplace, a coffee maker, a small refrigerator, fast and free Wi-Fi, a comfy bed and a big bathroom with a shower and tub. The deck out front had a couple of white Muskoka chairs and overlooked Lake Rosseau; a wonderful spot for your morning coffee or an evening glass of wine.
My wife and I happened to arrive on my birthday, which the hotel knew about. Not only did they decorate the rooms with balloons and a shiny Happy Birthday banner, but they also had a bright red “Happy Birthday” pillow on the bed. I was later told they keep a number of Happy Birthday and Happy Anniversary pillows on hand for special occasions. It’s a great, thoughtful touch.
One expects lovely surroundings at a posh resort. To me, what separates a four-star place from a five-star, or a five-star from that mythical six-star property that hotel groups like to talk about, is service. We had an excellent server at dinner at the Muskoka Chophouse, and the fellow who made my omelette at breakfast the next day was super-friendly. But the gentleman who made the biggest impression was a worker who noticed that my wife was looking for a newspaper at 7:30 a.m. when we headed up to eat. They hadn’t been delivered yet. But when we went back to the restaurant for a coffee at 10:30 he spotted my wife and brought over a copy of the morning paper.
They do a nice job at breakfast, with tons of fresh fruit, smoothies, house-made pastries, maple sausages and an omelette station (the omelettes are a much better option than the so-so scrambled eggs at the buffet, if you ask me). But dinner was terrific at the Muskoka Chophouse, which has been remodeled and made more open and accessible.
We started off with a nice beet salad and then shared absolutely tremendous crab cakes; soft and tender and filled with flaky crab meat. I might have had crab cakes as good as these, but I don’t remember when or where. We followed that up with a lovely, chai tea-infused duck and an excellent serving of lamb; done just right and seasoned with just a little salt and pepper, alongside a deeply flavourful reduction. For dessert we sample the chocolate lava cake, served with a just-slightly-spicy chipotle/chocolate sauce.
I loved their wine selection, and our server was quite knowledgeable. They also serve cocktails from the bar next door, including a wonderful “Lavender Lady” with Dillon’s Gin from Niagara, St. Germain, lemon juice and lavender seeds. I absolutely loved the “Bluegrass Smash,” served with Maker’s Mark bourbon, raw honey, simple syrup, fresh lemon, fresh orange and, for a nice flavour profile, a sprig of fresh rosemary. Bourbon can be a heavy drink, but they made it perfectly light and summery; one of the best cocktails I’ve had in a long time.
Of course, one comes to a place like the JW Marriott Rosseau as much for the outdoors as the food and the rooms. And the resort doesn’t disappoint. Lake Rosseau is a beautiful body of water; studded with small islands and deep coves and lined with magnificent cottages and boat houses big enough to house 50 of your closest friends. Because the resort is set so high on a hill, the views are fantastic, and you get a much different perspective than you would at other Muskoka places.
They have a couple of fine swimming pools and hot tubs, but to me the idea is spend time at the lake and not at the pool. The water was still a little cool this week, but I went for a quick dip on a warm day and there were tons of kids out enjoying a swim and jumping off the resort’s massive, inflatable “castle,” a bright yellow affair that has bouncy bits, monkey bars, slides and other fun features. Thankfully, there’s also a life guard.
I didn’t get out on the castle, but I did enjoy the resort’s pontoon boat tour of Lake Rosseau. For just $25, you’ll get a one-hour tour of the lake and learn about the history of the region. The cottages are something else, but the best part is the sun on your face and the gentle breeze as you slide along one of Ontario’s prettiest lakes.
Our guide, Logan, said a number of celebrities have cottages in the area.
“Cindy Crawford has a place on an island,” he told us. “She’s really very nice, and so are her kids.”
Logan also pointed out the massive cottage property owned by former Toronto Maple Leaf Wendel Clark. He said Clark occasionally rents it out for a handsome fee but gives most of the money to charity.
The pontoon ride costs a bit, as do Segway rides and the cool-looking zip line, but there’s no charge to use the bikes or the canoes, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards once you pay the resort fee ($49 per night per room in summer, $39 from mid-October 2018 to mid-May 2019). The resort fee also covers shuttles, enhanced Wi-Fi and other services.
The hotel also has a lovely spa and a kids’ program. One floor features a ping pong table, pool table, foosball and other games you can play for no charge.
On the day we left, my wife and I took a free, one-hour bike ride in the area with our cycling guide, Kristen. She pointed out a pretty church that sits on a bluff overlooking the lake and helped folks unfamiliar with the bike’s gears. There are a couple small hills but nothing too crazy, and Kristen was quick to advise riders to take things at their own pace and to get off their bikes and walk if they felt they needed to.
On top of the programs I’ve already mention, the resort puts on occasional astronomy and photography programs, and in the winter you can go snowmobiling, snowshoeing and skating, or try your hand at ice-fishing.
The resort is located adjacent to The Rock, a fun golf course that rolls around the hills of Muskoka and features plenty of exposed rock and several tricky, enjoyable holes.
NOTE: JW Marriott The Rosseau paid for my stay and for our meals, as well as the pontoon boat ride. The resort did not review this story prior to publication, and all impressions and descriptions are mine.