Hawaii Golf: From High-End to Funky and Fun, huge variety for players of all kinds

I had long been in love with Hawaii by the time it happened. But a routine chat at the public golf course at Waiehu, Maui in the mid 1970’s did a lot to boost my affection for these islands and its people.

I was in high school at the time and was vacationing on Maui for perhaps the third time. My parents had let me invite a friend from my home town in California, and we had planned to play golf one of the fancy-schmancy Wailea courses, which I believe were pretty new at the time.

We pulled into the parking lot one morning and dropped our clubs at the front, then went into the clubhouse. Almost immediately the guy behind the desk in the pro shop stopped us.

The Maui County or Maui Municipal course in Waiehu is fun and affordable. JIM BYERS PHOTO

“The boys can’t play in cut-offs,” he said. “You need proper shorts to play Wailea.”

My friend, also named Jim, and I were crushed. My Dad glared at the guy and said something like “Take your greens fees and stick ‘em where even the Hawaiian sun don’t shine.”

“Come on, boys,” he said to us. “We’re not wanted here. Let’s go play the Maui muni course.”

For those who don’t know it, the municipal course on Maui is a public facility in Waiehu, north of Wailuku. It’s a nice-enough course and has a couple holes on the Pacific Ocean. It’s fine. But it gets beaten up by hackers like me and the county and state don’t have the money to keep the fairways as Ireland-green as they are at Wailea or Kapalua.

Anyway, my Dad pulled up at Waiehu and we walked into the casual, well-worn clubhouse. My Dad asked about a tee times and greens fees. The guy behind the desk looked at Jim and I, carefully scanning up and down.

“How old are the boys,” he asked.

“Seventeen,” my Dad answered.

“No, sir,” came the reply. “They’re sixteen.”

“Well, no,” my Dad answered. “They’re seventeen.”

“No, boss. They’re sixteen. Sixteen and under is half price. They’re sixteen.”

This is still my Dad’s favourite golf story. Maybe mine, too. I understand the Wailea dress code, but to me the guy at the pro shop at the Waiehu course embodies the Hawaiian spirit that I’ve grown to love. I’ve played many of the high-end courses on the islands over the years, but I’m more attracted by the low-rent clubs where hackers rule and uppity attitudes are nowhere to be found.

Here’s a look at a variety of Hawaii courses you can try; both fancy/expensive and casual/cheap.

The Princeville Makai Golf Course on Kauai is a stunning design. JIM BYERS PHOTO

PRINCEVILLE, KAUAI: They used to have two courses on the north shore of Kauai, but it’s now down to one. The Princeville Makai layout is a true stunner, with several holes on the edge of cliffs that fall steeply down to the blue Pacific Ocean and great views of the rugged north shore mountains past Hanalei. Conditions are fantastic, and it’s a playable course that almost every level of golfer can enjoy. The par-three seventh hole is a dramatic shot over beautiful cliffs, with killer mountain and water views. The bunkers in front of the seventh hole resemble waves rolling into Hanalei Bay to the west. This is the first-ever course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. If you don’t want to play you can still take a sunset golf cart tour and capture some great Instagram images. Rack Rate is $295 (all figures USD) with golf cart, GPS and driving range usage prior to your round. Ages 16 and 17 pay half the regular rate, while kids six to 15 are free per paying adult all day. And isn’t that nice? The course plays 7,223 yards from the back tees, with a slope rating of 134. From the whites, you’re looking at 6,134 yards and a slope rating of 125. INFORMATION: http://www.makaigolf.com/golf/proto/princeville/

KAUAI MUNICIPAL COURSE: The island’s 18-hole public/municipal course is in Wailua, not far from the main city of Lihue. It looks tame from the club house, but this is a muni course with bite. Played from the blue tees, you’re looking at 6,991 yards and a 130 slope rating. The whites are 6,585 yards, with a slope rating of 127. Not exactly Pinehurst, but a far cry from some municipal courses. There are several holes along the Pacific Ocean, which means you’re likely battling those offshore breezes. The 17th hole is a lovely par three down a big hill to an ocean-side green fronted by bunkers. Arnold Palmer once called it one of his favourite holes. Non-resident weekend and holiday rates $60 USD; weekdays $48. You also can buy a non-resident play care for five 18-hole rounds (not on weekends or holidays) for $215; a savings of about $25 USD. INFORMATION: http://www.kauai.gov/Golf

The Kapalua Plantation Course is home to the first PGA Tour event of the calendar year. PHOTO COURTESY KAPALUA/TROON GOLF

KAPALUA: The Plantation Course is up the side of a hill overlooking the channel between Maui and Molokai. It’s the site of the yearly opening tournament on the PGA Tour, set aside for tournament winners only. It’s a bit of a bear for your average duffer. But the course is kept in immaculate condition, the views are outstanding and the steep, downhill 18th is as much fun as you can have with your clothes on. It’s not cheap; $329 is the posted 18-hole rate, with a $249 twilight rate (you might not finish the 18th hole, so beware). The championship tees have a gulp-inducing 144 slope rating. But the resort tees are a more manageable 132 slope. The Bay Course is much more player friendly but still has some challenges. It also has a couple of holes right on the ocean, including the par-three fifth hole, where you’ll have to hit over a steep set of dark cliffs that plunge into the blue water below. The slope rating from the resort tees is 124; from the championship tees it’s 135. Standard rate $229; twilight rate $169. INFORMATION: https://golfatkapalua.com/

WAIEHU (Maui Municipal) Located a few minutes north of the fun, low-key town of Wailuku, you’ll find several holes running along the Pacific Ocean. Conditions aren’t quite up to Pebble Beach standards, but the locals are wonderful (see above) and there are some nice challenges. The fifth hole is one of the strongest, a par-three from an elevated tee and into the teeth of the wind. The seventh hole is a par-five stretched along the Pacific. The back nine is inland but has some nice views. Weekends $63 for non-residents, weekend twilight $31.50. Weekday rate is $58 for non-residents, with $29 twilight rates. Regular tees are 6,330 yards, with a 111 slope rating. INFORMATION: https://www.mauicounty.gov/Facilities/Facility/Details/157

IRONWOODS, MOLOKAI: This island doesn’t get a lot of visitors, but it’s a real slice of old Hawaii. The somewhat hilly Ironwoods Course offers some nice views of the island; and some exercise, too. Warning: there aren’t any golf shops on the island so bring balls and tees. You can rent clubs, albeit not the latest Callaways. Nine holes; par 34, 3000 yards. $16 for nine holes, plus $9 for a power cart. 1-808-567-6000. No website, but you can try the state tourism board’s site: https://www.gohawaii.com/islands/molokai/things-to-do/land-activities/Golf

Kukui O Lono is an enjoyable – and dirt cheap – nine-hold course on Kauai. JIM BYERS PHOTO

KUKUI O LONO: This is a short (2,981 yards) nine-hole course that’s 20 minutes from Poipu Beach on Kauai. It’s part of an old estate and they’re obliged to keep prices low: $10 for nine holes! The course isn’t in pristine condition, but it’s fun and playable, and the views of the distant south coast mountains and the ocean are terrific. They don’t take tee times. Carts and clubs each are $10, which means you can get clubs, a cart and your greens fees for $30. INFORMATION: http://www.kauai.com/kukuiolono-park

OAHU: Turtle Bay has two courses on the quiet north side of Oahu. You can save up to 50 per cent on your golf and room together with the Unlimited Stay and Play package. INFORMATION: http://www.turtlebayresort.com/

BIG ISLAND: Waikoloa, on the sunny Kona coast, has a pair of lovely layouts, The Kings’ Course and The Beach Course. The nine-hole Banyans (also called Naniloa) course in Hilo is $25, but guests of the Grand Naniloa Hotel next door (a pretty spot on the water with very reasonable rates) can play for free. Hilo is several miles from the island’s active volcano and hasn’t been impacted by the eruptions. The Waikoloa course is several hours away by car and hasn’t been affected at all. INFORMATION: https://www.grandnaniloahilo.com/ https://www.waikoloabeachgolf.com/

HOKUALA: A beauty on the south coast of Kauai designed by Jack Nicklaus, with several spectacular holes on the water. They also have a mini, “barefoot” course for kids and players of all abilities. INFORMATION: https://www.hokualakauai.com/