Undiscovered Florida: Two Days In And Around Beautiful Ocala

OCALA, FLORIDA – The prettiest, bluest springs I’ve ever seen. Terrific tacos. And a crazy good kayak ride.
North Central Florida is perhaps best known as the Sunshine State’s horse country. It’s also home to some of the prettiest stretches of rivers and springs this long-time Florida lover and frequent visitor has ever seen.
I’ve probably been to Florida 25 or 30 times over the years. I’ve explored remote islands in The Everglades, had drinks at the state’s oldest saloon in Fernandina Beach and gulped down giant oysters in Apalachicola. I’ve toured beautiful, serene waterways, dined at top Miami restaurants and seen dozens of sunsets at Clearwater Beach.
But this was the first time I’d taken time to explore the area around Ocala, which is roughly 120 kilometers (65 miles) northwest of Orlando and about 160 km’s (100 miles) north of Tampa. I discovered a relaxed, attractive city with a fine downtown, great food and a lively arts and entertainment scene to go with the surprising natural beauty of the region.

Kayaking at Silver Springs State Park near Ocala, Florida. JIM BYERS PHOTO

I didn’t realize how extensive they are, but it turns out that natural springs bubble out of the Florida limestone over a huge swath of the state central and northern areas of the state. The water ranges from green to aquamarine to Greek Island blue, with tons of wildlife and beautiful trees and wildflowers. When I visited in December, the trees had far more autumn colour than I would’ve expected; a nice bonus.
I started my journey to Ocala in New Smyrna Beach on the Atlantic coast, winding my way through pretty countryside with stands selling peanuts and local fruits and veggies. In Barberville I found a truly wonderful and wacky Yard Art Emporium with everything from giant red and yellow chickens to Bob’s Big Boy Hamburger statues and garish, grinning monkeys. Not to everyone’s taste, and I confess I didn’t buy anything. But I love this sort of kitsch.
Further along I stopped in Deland to admire the handsome, walkable downtown, snap a photo of one of the prettiest courthouses in the U.S. and fuel up with a coffee stop at a small place called Trilogy. It was the creamiest, flavourful and most satisfying coffee latte I can remember having anywhere, and that includes Seattle, Rome and other cities around the world.

The county courthouse in lovely Deland, Florida. JIM BYERS PHOTO

I also stopped briefly in the village of Astor, which sits on a beautiful stretch of the St. John’s River and features a fun dining spot called The Blackwater Inn, with fine views of the river and a fun, casual atmosphere. There was a sign outside the Inn advertising boat rides, which sound like a great way to enjoy the beauty of the area. I didn’t have time for a meal, but it looks like a great spot to sit and relax on a sunny Florida afternoon.

I made my way to the Silver Springs State Park outside of Ocala, where I was scheduled to take a ride on a glass-bottom boat. I don’t know about you, but the only ones I’d been one before this were cheesy affairs with tiny glass bits to peer through. The boat I was in at Silver Springs, however, featured an enormous viewing area with clear glass that was easy to see through.

A manatee enjoying the clear, warm waters at Silver Springs State Park in Florida. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Our guide pointed out the wreck of a 500-year-old Indian canoe and showed us all sorts of fish, including bass. We also spotted a couple of alligators sunning themselves on logs in the late autumn sun and a manatee with a baby; apparently an unusual sight this far inland.
They’ve made many movies and TV shows here over the years, including early Tarzan films and the James Bond movie “Thunderball.”
You’ll have to register well in advance, but Silver Springs State Park has wonderful, large cabins you can rent for $110 USD a night. They sleep up to six people (that’s the maximum allowed) and feature a bedroom with a queen bed, another bedroom with two twins, and then a sofa bed in the living room. All cabins have a fireplace, a full kitchen with a stove, microwave and dishwasher, toaster and more. All units have heating and air conditioning, along with massive, screened-in porches. They’ll even provide linens.

Florida’s Silver Springs State Park has a fine collection of historic buildings from the area. JIM BYERS PHOTO

You’re not allowed to pitch a tent outside, but you can sleep on the porch if that’s your preference, said park worker Tina Charney Kravitz, who showed me around the cabins.
“I love being here and cleaning the cabins,” she told me. “I get a real sense of accomplishment when I close the door and left it nice and clean for the next guests.”
If you ask me, the world could use a few more people like Tina.
The park also features a nice museum that’s reserved for school kids most of the time but is usually open on weekends. You’ll find great displays on native history, a monstrous model of a sabre tooth tiger and more. They also have a small village with a dozen or so restored pioneer buildings, including Florida “cracker” houses, a small church and a one-room schoolhouse.
If you’re looking for a fun spot for lunch with a lovely patio, Mojo Grill in Silver Springs is an ideal option. It’s got a collection of funky and colourful art on the walls inside and a spacious outdoor dining area, where I had good fish taco and very nice chicken and sausage gumbo. They also do Cuban sandwiches, burgers, wings and other casual menu items.

Mojo Grill is a fun dining spot in the Silver Springs/Ocala area. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Ocala is just a short drive away. I didn’t know much about the town but found a lovely park with cool art on display (Tuscawilla Art Park, just a few blocks north of downtown) and a nice-looking, walkable downtown. There was an arts/Christmas festival going on as part of the city’s monthly “First Friday Art Walk” and they had music playing in the Old Downtown Square, as well as booths with folks selling Christmas goodies, soaps, works of art and other items.
I tucked into some very good barbeque that night at Brick City Southern Kitchen and Whiskey Bar, a happening spot across the old square that appears quite popular with young folks and families alike. For $17 I had a combo meat platter with two kinds of meat; three moist spare ribs with a great dry rub along with three slices of wonderful, smoked turkey breast. The combo also comes with Texas toast and two sides. I had some pretty good cornbread and an excellent bowl of smoked corn. I also had a powerful old-fashioned from the bar, with a kick like a mule. Brick City’s happy hour features draft beers for $3, wine for $5 and cocktails for just $6. Definitely not South Beach prices.
From there it was over to the Reilly Center to hear a terrific performance from the jazz/pop band Manhattan Transfer, who’ve won 10 Grammy Awards over the years and still sound as smooth as ever. They also had a fabulous backing band, with a wonderful bass player and sensational pianist. It’s a lovely facility and they put on what look like very good shows; including a Pink Floyd laser show they were advertising and a Johnny Cash tribute band.

Downtown Ocala features a walkable, pedestrian-friendly and enjoyable downtown. JIM BYERS PHOTO

The next day I backtracked a little east and hit Juniper Springs Recreation Area in the Ocala National Forest; roughly 45 minutes from downtown Ocala. The area features a beautiful pond with clear, warm spring water and an old mill house. They have a series of lovely nature trails all around, including one with a fine boardwalk that meanders through forests of palmetto, live oak trees and slash pines. A group of kayakers were navigating a small stream when I was there, and they have a gift shop and a changing room.
It’s a nice walk or a short drive over to Fern Hammock, where you’ll find some of the clearest, bluest water you might ever see, along with a pretty bridge. I spotted some turtles lazily swimming about, and from the bridge you can look down and see where the fresh water is bubbling up from under ground.
A sign in the parking lot said Ocala National Forest is the oldest national forest east of the Mississippi River. Who knew?

Fern Hammock is a stunningly beautiful spot at Juniper Springs Recreation Area near Ocala, Florida. JIM BYERS PHOTO

As much as I enjoyed Brick City’s barbeque, I might have liked Sayulita Tacos even more. Just a block away from the downtown square, it’s a fun spot with indoor seating and a huge patio out back, some of it in a shady section. I had good guacamole and nice homemade salsa with some of the brightest tomatoes I’ve ever seen. They have a variety of tacos on the menu, including The Cowboy, which comes with steak, cheese (queso) and bacon. Yum and yum again. There was a note on the table advertising their Taco Tuesday special; two simple tacos and then a Pabst Blue Ribbon, frozen margarita or soda pop for just $6.
Southwest of Ocala in an area filled with pretty, rolling hills and horse farms is KP Hole County Park, which sits on the Rainbow River and where you can rent kayaks, paddleboards, inner tubes and other gear. I borrowed a kayak for a roughly one-hour paddle up the river to Rainbow Springs State Park, where’s there more beautiful water and a pretty park that was being done up for a Christmas party that night, with tons of lights and holiday decorations.

Sayulita Tacos serves up excellent Mexican food in downtown Ocala, Florida. JIM BYERS PHOTO

The left side of the river as you go north is dotted with pretty cottages, both small and large. The right side is in a more natural state, with groves of towering trees and no buildings in sight. There was a slight current going against me but it’s not a tough paddle upstream. I passed one woman on her stand-up paddleboard, a small dog resting at the front of the board. She told me she’s out on the river regularly and that the dog’s name is Nibblers. I also spotted a young fellow who appeared to have his iPhone or a radio playing a bouncy Jimmy Buffett tune as he paddled along.
I passed a long covered with four or five dark turtles, and also watched as anhingas (snakefish) and other birds stalked the shoreline in an effort to get a mid-day snack.

Rainbow Springs State Park is a wonderful spot for a swim or kayak trip. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Dinner that night was down the road in the town of Dunnellon at a wonderful tiki bar called The Blue Gator. It’s a wildly popular spot that sits on a stretch of the Withlacoochee River and features tons of outdoor dining. When I was there a band was getting ready to play on a small stage off to one side. I had a nice blackened mahi mahi sandwich with chips and good creamy chowder with a surprising kick to it, along with a Stump Knocker American Ale, made up the road in Gainesville.
The restaurant is at Angler’s Resort, which offers airboat rides and pontoon boat rentals.
All in all, a wonderful and surprising couple of days in an area of Florida that doesn’t get nearly enough exposure.

HOTEL OPTIONS: I stayed at the Best Western Ocala Park Center on the south side of town. There’s easy freeway access and it’s only a short drive into downtown. The room was nice and modern, with lots of space. Super-friendly staff at the front desk. There’s also a nice heated pool and a grassy area for relaxation, plus a free breakfast.

MORE INFORMATION: https://www.ocalamarion.com/

COMMENTS OR COMPLAINTS: Email me: jim@jimbyerstravel.com

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