SCOTTSDALE – The crack of a bat. The sun on your face. And hardly a Zamboni in sight.
It’s spring training time in Arizona, where roughly half of major league ballplayers gather to hone their skills in time for the regular season. All big league teams have their spring headquarters in the Scottsdale-Phoenix area, which makes Scottsdale the ideal base.
Scottsdale proper is home to three major league teams for spring training: the San Francisco Giants, Colorado Rockies and Arizona Diamondbacks. You’re also within a few minutes drive of all the other teams in Arizona, including the Los Angeles Dodgers, where Canadian catcher Russell Martin is now employed. Scottsdale is a tremendous destination, with fab food, remarkable resorts and a wide array of outdoor activities to check out.
Avocado Toast at Farm and Craft in Scottsdale. JIM BYERS PHOTO
FOOD
Diego Pops is a vibrant downtown spot for Mexican food that has a fine patio and a very young clientele that very much runs against the Scottsdale retiree stereotype. Try the braised pineapple pork tacos or the crazy-good nachos with roasted Brussels Sprouts and a fried egg on top. Sounds weird. Tastes amazing. http://www.diegopopsscottsdale.com/
Craft 64 serves up amazing pizza. They make their own dough, use local, organic produce and even make their own mozzarella. The Fico pizza comes with fig sauce, three kinds of cheese and arugula. Add some prosciutto for a salty, meaty flavour that synchronizes perfectly with the other ingredients. They serve up eight of their own beers and offer a large variety of other beers; with 36 taps in all.
Farm and Craft is yet another hip and happening spot. We went for breakfast (they’re open for lunch and dinner, too) and had great avocado toast with egg whites and filling, flavourful breakfast burritos. They also serve smoothies filled with all kinds of good-for-you things like kale, carrots and ginger. And the taps pour out everything from local beer and wine to cold-brewed coffee. With it’s cool interior and funky signs, it’s an Instagram post waiting to happen.
Mixing a cocktail at Citizen Public House in Scottsdale, Arizona. PHOTO COURTESY EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE
Citizen Public House is a popular spot with soft lighting and a varied menu. The scallops are lovely, and the lamb shank is almost Fred Flintstone-sized. They also serve the famous Stetson Chopped Salad, with corn, tomatoes, couscous, salmon, pepitas, currants, arugula and Asiago Cheese, served with a buttermilk herb dressing. Perhaps Scottsdale’s trademark dish, it’s a tasty concoction that has its own Facebook page!
Just a short walk from Scottsdale Stadium, Starlite BBQ serves wonderful ribs, brisket, grilled meatloaf, hot fried chicken and other treats in an upscale space. They also make tremendous cocktails with high-end varieties of whiskey. Try the Chile in Manhattan, a southwest take on a classic cocktail.
I loved my visit to Hula’s Modern Tiki, where they make everything from macadamia nut-encrusted mahi mahi to “Jawaiian” pulled pork that’s a combo Caribbean/Hawaii and comes with fried plantains. They have terrific Mai Tais, which run just $8 in normal hours and a mere six bucks USD during happy hour.
Hula’s Modern Tiki is a wonderful spot in vibrant, youthful Scottsdale. PHOTO COURTESY EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE
Want to try a wide variety of places in a short time? Arizona Food Tours offers up a three-hour taste and tour of five different Scottsdale restaurants. You’ll get a nice history review and try some terrific food. Our tour included stops at The Mission for great tacos and Mexican street corn, Nonna’s Urban Eatery (Italian) in a pretty courtyard, a fine Thai spot called Malee’s for Tom Yum soup, Brat Haus for house-made sausages and a sweet dessert place called Shakes and Cones. Burp.
Cartel and Sip both serve up tremendous coffee and espresso drinks in downtown Scottsdale, with youthful vibes and baristas who probably have tattoos in places their mothers don’t want to know about.
Hotel Valley Ho, Scottsdale. PHOTO COURTESY EXPERIENCE SCOTTSDALE
HOTELS
Hotel Valley Ho is a wonderful, 1956 property done in colourful mid-century style, with plenty of aquamarine and orange accents. Check out the second-floor photo displays of stars such as Bing Crosby and former Boston Red Sox star Ted Williams. The Tower Suites are huge and feel like something out of the Mad Men TV show. ZuZu restaurant does a great job, especially with their Show Stopper dessert shakes. The hotel is right downtown and only a short walk to Scottsdale Stadium, where the Giants play.
The Hyatt Regency Scottsdale is a remarkable resort with ten swimming pools (a few are admittedly fairly small), a great beach for kids, gondola rides at night, live music, a wonderful spa and spacious rooms. The Wine Me/Dine Me program at their SWB restaurant is outstanding; a four-course meal that’s made up the day of your dinner with fresh ingredients and tons of style. Each course is paired with tequila or excellent wine, and it’s just $90 per person ($65 without the liquor). The hotel is a short drive from Salt River Fields at Talking Stick, where the Rockies and Diamondbacks play.
Try the remarkable Wine Me/Dine Me program at the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale. JIM BYERS PHOTO
A short drive north of downtown, Mountain Shadows was one of the top places to see and be seen in Scottsdale in the late 50’s and early 60’s. Smooth orchestras serenaded late-night dancers, and movie and TV stars glided around the floor. The resort was closed for a bit but re-opened a little more than a year ago with a sleek and sexy, modern look that’s different from most Arizona properties. There’s an outstanding par-three golf course that’s in immaculate condition, as well as two stunning swimming pools and other amenities. Hearth 61 serves up terrific food, including massive diver scallops from California and fresh agnolotti filled with rich, meaty short rib and toasted bread crumbs for a slightly crunchy texture.
LDV Winery in downtown Scottsdale. JIM BYERS PHOTO
ACTIVITIES
Downtown Scottsdale is home to several terrific wineries, Arizona having terrific wine-growing areas at high elevations. LDV has a nice variety of whites and reds, including slightly spicy, full-bodied Petite Sirah. The Sangiovese at Carlson Creek Vineyard’s tasting room is truly outstanding; rich and fruit-forward without the annoying, jammy notes.
Scottsdale has some of the world’s best golf spots, including Troon North. If your game needs a tune-up, try the remarkable practice meets golf game facility at Top Golf.
Need a hit of culture? Western Spirit, Scottsdale’s Museum of the West, has wonderful displays of paintings, bronze works and other art that celebrates Arizona in particular and the west in general. Look for the painting of a native American talking to a white explorer wearing a Hudson’s Bay jacket. The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (SMOCA) serves up a variety of exhibits in a stylish building. They’re currently focussing on video art, with moving pictures that explore everything from the O.J. Simpson trial to equality for women in Iran.
Nature lovers will very much enjoy the Desert Botanical Garden, where there are hundreds of cactus and other plants on display. The flowers are out in spring, so it’s a great time to go. They also have a magical display on now called The Electric Desert (until May 12, 2019), with wondrous light effects and music that brings the desert to life after dark.
Scottsdale is one of the top cities in America for hikers. JIM BYERS PHOTO
HIKING
Being surrounded by tall, craggy mountains, Scottsdale is a veritable paradise with hikers of all abilities. Camelback Mountain is arguably the most famous hike in the area. It’s fairly strenuous and takes a couple hours, but you also can go partway up in perhaps 20 minutes and get a great view of the valley, including Tempe and Phoenix. The Four Seasons Scottsdale has a terrific hiking program, as does The Boulders Resort, which features huge, rounded, red rocks that feel like something from another world. The Spur Cross Conservation Area in north Scottsdale includes a beautiful river valley and towering saguaro cactus. It’s not a hiking spot, but outdoors folks who enjoy the desert will love a tour around the Desert Botanical Gardens, where they have hundreds of cactus and other desert plants. There’s a wonderful light and music show going on every night at the gardens until May 12, 2019.
SHOPPING
Fashion Square is one of the largest malls I’ve seen, a sprawling, multi-level affair that offers everything from high-end stores like Neiman Marcus to inexpensive sports shops selling National Football League, baseball and hockey memorabilia. I prefer smaller, independent shops to a shopping centre, and downtown Scottsdale is packed with them. Old Town has the usual assortment of western gear and t-shirts, but also shops selling colourful cloth blankets for as little as $7. Giving Bracelets makes wonderful leather products and jewelry, while Carmen offers up beautiful scented candles, unique clothing and a wide array of products designed and made in Arizona.
More Information: www.experiencescottsdale.com
NOTE: My trip to Scottsdale was paid for by Experience Scottsdale. They did not review or see this article prior to publication.
NEXT WEEK: Dunedin (home of the Blue Jays) and more Florida spring training info.
