CARLSBAD, CALIFORNIA – I’ve just finished a wonderful lunch at a place called Shorehouse Kitchen, and I’ve got time to explore the downtown area of this very walkable, compact city on the Pacific Ocean.
I spot several nice, independent shops (if there are any chain shops downtown, I didn’t see them) and then poke my head into a marvellous Italian shop called Vigilucci’s.
It’s one of those places that makes your head spin; filled with lovely meats (iberico ham, perfect Bresaola, pink prosciutto with just the right ribbon of fat), imported cheeses with deep, cheesy smells and Italian chocolates, olives and wines.
It’s a wonderful place, but what really grabs my attention is a place a few doors down called The Goods where they serve up a variety of funky-sounding donuts and wonderful coffee. It’s a cool, hip place in a town that’s roughly midway between Orange County and San Diego, and I’m immediately taken with the donut varieties, including s’mores donuts, prosecco butter cream, strawberry cheesecake and more.
Jareth Barille and Kelsey Shockey of The Goods in Carlsbad. JIM BYERS PHOTO
I chat briefly with Jareth Barille, who tells me he was born and raised in Carlsbad and that it’s a family run joint. They also run a nearby restaurant called Café Topes.
“We’re working on a rhubarb cheesecake but it isn’t ready yet,” Barille says. He hands me a double butter with sea salt donut to try with the coffee latte I’ve ordered. It’s utterly delicious. And almost certainly very low in calories.
Barille tells me there’s definitely been a shift in Carlsbad the past few years, with new, younger merchants trying their hand at business.
“It’s good to see young ideas coming in,” he says. “Folks are coming up from San Diego as it’s more affordable here. They’re adding new elements to the town and that’s a good thing.”
Around the corner I spot an independent book store called Fahrenheit 451, named after a famous Ray Bradbury novel. They sell used and new books; everything from mysteries and romance to western novels and books by Louise Penney, who writes marvellous thrillers about a fictional town in Quebec in the Eastern Townships (it’s actually based on the adorable, small village of Knowlton).
Ya gotta love a town with a welcome sign like this. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The fellow behind the counter says he misses his home state of Montana but that there isn’t much in the way of employment up that way.
Between jokes about the Montana economy and about Canada building a wall to keep the Americans out, he tells me things are booming in the village and at his book store. Which is good, because I have this theory that you can’t really be a good small city unless you have a great coffee shop and a strong, independent book shop. I’ve been strolling downtown Carlsbad for 20 minutes and I’ve already found both.
Over the course of a three-day visit I very much fall in love with this small city. The downtown is a delight, and it’s even served by several trains that run along the coast. There are funky antique shops selling old NHL trading cards and Blue Jays baseball cards (Jack Morris, George Bell and other Toronto heroes), not to mention women’s clothing boutiques and fun restaurants (more on that in my next report).
My wife and I borrowed a couple of Pedego electric bikes for a fun ride along the coast south of downtown, admiring the pretty cliffs and gorgeous homes across the road. The beach in Carlsbad goes on for miles, and it’s a wide, pretty stretch of sand backed by low hills dotted (at this time of year) with wildflowers. Beach volleyball is very popular, and there’s pretty good surf when conditions are right.
Try an electric bike rental from Pedego, Carlsbad. PHOTO COURTESY VISIT CARLSBAD
The electric bikes are a great way to explore, as you can pedal or also use the batteries for a bit of a boost should the need – or the desire for speed – arise. They’re quite simple, and the owners will give you a lesson and a practice run in the parking lot before you venture out into traffic.
A bike ride in Carlsbad is also made easy by the wide bike lanes. We quickly spotted why, as you can’t go more than a few minutes without seeing cyclists whizzing about the city. Mind you, with not much rain most years and one of the most even, pleasant climates in the world, it’s no surprise there are a lot of bicycles about.
The shop also sells electric bikes, if you want to try to cram one into that oversized suitcase your spouse keeps complaining about. Or, hey, you could drive back to Canada if you’re willing to stop for battery re-charging.
Earlier in our trip we had visited the marvellous Leo Carrillo Ranch Historic Park, named for an old-time Hollywood actor who played the role of Pancho in The Cisco Kid TV show and had many movie roles over his career. He was quite the horseman, and built a wonderful ranch high in the hills above Carlsbad.
Leo Carrillo Ranch State Park in Carlsbad. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Visitors today will find solid, handsome buildings with pretty gardens that feature flowering agave, brilliant orange birds of paradise and vivid pink ice plant flowers. There’s also a small centre that shows a video about his colourful life.
The ranch also is home to a flock of peacocks, who strut about the place and show off (the males, of course) their feathers to anyone strolling past. One of the signposts we read says Carrillo used to put up mirrors so the males could admire themselves all day long. (Wives, girlfriends and sisters: insert your own joke here.)
Even more spectacular, especially for gardening fans, is something called The Flower Fields at Carlsbad Ranch. They used to grow poinsettias here, but now it’s known mostly for its acre upon acre upon acre of rolling hills dotted with row upon row upon row of colourful ranunculus flowers: sunset pink, bright red, sunshine yellow, brilliant white and more. It’s an astonishing sight, and you can take a ride around the fields in a tractor to get a better glimpse.
The soil here is sandy and light, which means good drainage. And that’s critical for ranunculus.
The ranunculus blooms go on forever at The Flower Fields at Carlsbad Ranch. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The seeds are planted in late summer and bloom in late winter or early spring. Cut flowers are sold on site, and they also ship bulbs across the U.S. Our tour guide told us California grows 76% of the fresh flowers in the U.S., and that there are something like 70 million ranunculus blooms a year.
He also told us the Ecke family came to California from Germany in 1900 and operated a flower stand in Hollywood before coming south. Their tale is a true American success story, and something like 150,000 visitors a year now come to gaze in wonder.
The ranunculus take up the vast majority of the fields. But owners also are smart enough to provide gardens with roses, an indoor spot with stunning orchids, a poinsettia display and other bits. If your kids aren’t into flowers, and they almost certainly aren’t, there’s a Santa’s Village and a children’s playground where they can burn off some energy. They also do weddings and have a large cage filled with several types of chirping birds, as well as a sweet pea garden maze.
A lovely Carlsbad sunset from my room at the Beach Terrace Inn. JIM BYERS PHOTO
As if that’s not enough, the Carlsbad outlet shopping center is right next door. And both are mere seconds from Highway 5, which links San Diego with Orange County.
And I didn’t even get to Legoland, the city’s most famous attraction.
NEXT UP: The beautiful, hip Beach Terrace Inn on the water and some cool dining spots in Carlsbad.
MORE INFO: https://visitcarlsbad.com/https://visitcarlsbad.com/https://visitcarlsbad.com/
NOTE: My flight to California, my room at the Beach Terrace Inn and my meals and activities were paid for by Visit Carlsbad. Officials at Visit Carlsbad did not see or endorse this story prior to publication.
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