Sensational Santa Monica Cuisine: Socalo and Citrin

SANTA MONICA – The beach you probably know about. And maybe the famous pier, which marks the western end (or beginning) of Route 66.
But Santa Monica is increasingly known for its amazing food scene. I was in town for a couple days in February and managed a delicious lunch at a new Mexican place run by two well-known chefs and a fantastic dinner at a new restaurant run by a Michelin-starred chef.
Less than an hour after touching down at LAX on our Air Canada flight, my wife and I were chatting with Mary Sue Milliken at Socalo, a casual, sunny and fabulously tasty spot that she runs with long-time friend and food partner Susan Feniger.
Feniger wasn’t on hand, but Milliken took lots of time to chat with a not terribly important Canadian writer about their background, their approach to food, and their commitment to the environment and sustainability; positions that mesh nicely with the liberal-minded folks in this Southern California seaside town.
Socalo, a play on words that combines SoCal with Zocalo, a Mexican city plaza or meeting place, is a modern take on Mexican cuisine meets California fresh, Milliken told me.

Socalo serves up fabulous California-Mexican cuisine in Santa Monica. JIM BYERS PHOTO

It’s a beautiful, bright spot next to the Gateway Hotel, with a casual bar and big windows that look out onto Santa Monica Boulevard and a small patio that fronts onto 20th Street. I loved the interior design, with big, blue metal posts sporting what look like hotel room beauty mirrors.
It’s billed as an all-day, California-Mexican cantina with an emphasis on small, shareable portions. I wasn’t there for breakfast, but the granola and French Toast looked tasty, and I did try the guava and cheese empanada, which was insanely tasty.
For lunch Mary Sue served us up a variety of items, including a sensational “Mexicali Ceviche” with sustainable (of course) fish, avocado, lime, and a hint of ginger in a crispy corn tortilla that was terrific. I loved their Salsa Macha (a feminine twist on macho), which has a deep, rich, smoky, lingering flavour that was unlike any salsa I’ve had before. Call it the Sophia Loren or maybe the Jenniper Lopez of salsas, if you like.
We also had a nice Shrimp Campechana with housemade, spicy cocktail sauce sprinkled with avocado, cucumber and tomato, as well as sensational Vampiro tacos, with steak and shrimp, griddled cheese and a blue corn tortilla. For more of a Hawaiian feel, she also served up a terrific tuna poke with citrus soy, cucumber, serrano chiles and tiny, ripe kumquats.
On top of that, the guacamole and chips were perfect.
Mary Sue and Susan met in Chicago when they were both working at a restaurant called Le Perroquet. It was a very male dominated restaurant in a very male-dominated industry, and the two became fast friends.

Socalo serves only sustainable seafood and features local, organic fare whenever possible. JIM BYERS PHOTO

They both studied for a time in France, Mary Sue in Paris and Susan in the south of France. They also travelled around the world, picking up new techniques and flavours.
Susan got married and then separated from her husband and moved to California. Mary Sue followed her to the Golden State and they set up shop together. Their best-known endeavour is Border Grill, but they also have run several other restaurants and have a Border Grill in Las Vegas at Mandalay Bay, as well as a place at Mandalay called BBQ Mexicana, where they advertise burnt-end burritos that sound way beyond delicious and that I will make a point of getting to when I’m there in late May.
They’re also veterans of the Food Network and other TV shows featuring top chefs. In 2018 they were given the Julia Child Award for making a difference in the American food scene; the first women chefs to win the award and the first chef team to win. According to the New York Times, they were cited in part because of how they’ve empowered women during their long and illustrious careers.
Both women are active in charitable groups, including Chefs Collaborative, SOS (Share our Strength) and Women Chefs & Restaurateurs.
Talking with her at Socalo, you’d have no idea you’re dealing with one of the most famous chefs in the U.S. She’s totally unassuming, with an easy air about her and an eagerness about her cuisine that belies her countless hours behind a hot stove over 4o—plus years in a very difficult industry that’s not always friendly to women.
The restaurant also is committed to sustainability and has a zero footprint. They serve only organic rice, beans and corn tortillas, and they use seasonal, local ingredients whenever possible, as well as serving sustainable seafood and hormone-free, antibiotic-free meats and poultry.

Chocolate souffle at Citrin restaurant in Santa Monica. JIM BYERS PHOTO

As well as enjoying Socalo, we were super lucky and also had an amazing dinner at Citrin, a new spot on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica that features modern California cuisine and is run by Josiah Citrin, who runs Melisse next door (and which has been rated for two Michelin stars).
The interior was very cool and muted, like a new Four Seasons hotel in a big city, and a quiet atmosphere despite a solid crowd in February.
We sampled a couple of terrific cocktails that seem made for each other: The “Ready for Love” and the “Love Me Two Times” (perhaps a nod to Jim Morrison of the Doors, who hail from these parts). The former featured Tequila, Kings Ginger, Shishito Shrub, Yuzu and Regan’s Orange bitters, while the latter had Mezcal, Cherry Heering, Cinnamon Demerara, Yuzu, and Angostura bitters.
We enjoyed a dead perfect quail with pickled cabbage and an outstanding lamb pasta with a rich, Bolognese-style sauce, toasted breadcrumbs and pecorino cheese that was satisfying and filling. We also sampled the Maine scallops, which were perfectly cooked and served with celeriac, coconut and lime. For dessert we devoured a molten chocolate souffle (the waiter came by and injected warm chocolate right into the souffle) with vanilla bean ice cream for dessert.
They have a terrific wine list, and the service was attentive and whisper quiet.
We didn’t try it, but Citrin recently renovated his restaurant space and has re-opened Melisse as a 14-seat dining spot with a 14-course (YES FOURTEEN) menu that costs $295 US. One story I read about the place says he’s gunning for a third Michelin star, and that would be something.
The bar at Citrin has a great happy hour, with several food items for less than $10 and special prices for drinks and cocktails, so that’s a great way to sample some of Josiah Citrin’s cuisine without damaging your wallet.

Sunset in Santa Monica. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Of course, we didn’t just eat on our trip; we also explored the fabled Santa Monica Pier, walked on the beach on a lovely February afternoon and watched the sunset from the park that runs along the bluff above the beach, fronting Ocean Avenue. It’s one of the great urban parks in the world, in my opinion; not huge but with towering palm trees, flower gardens and green, green grass that’s a lovely welcome for a Canadian in winter.

MORE INFORMATION: https://www.santamonica.com/