I saw a story in the Toronto Star (my employer for 32 years) on Friday that said Canadian and Ontario tourism folks are thinking of pulling some of their proposed spending from Asia and other overseas markets and focusing instead on Canada and the U.S. Given the empty planes and hotels that we’re seeing around the world, that’s probably a good call. After all, it’s a lot easier to control your environment if you drive somewhere, particularly if you drive to a remote part of the country or to place where you’re enjoying the great outdoors, relatively free from any potential for latching onto a virus.
Which makes this a great year for Canadians to stay home and enjoy the sights. With that in mind, here’s a story I did for an American newspaper at the start of 2018, listing some of my favourite places to visit in the True North Strong and Free. I figure most folks know about the big cities, so I’m emphasizing lesser-known spots that Canadians and Americans may not know as well. The walks and neighbourhoods I mention are certainly still in existence, but some of the restaurants or attractions may no longer be around, so check before you go!
Newfoundland
The Skerwink Trail is an awesome hiking spot in Newfoundland.
I’m lucky enough to have poked around many corners of Canada, and this province is far and away my favourite. Some of the best spots include the 5.3 km Skerwink Trail (take it slow to enjoy the spectacular coastal views) near Port Rexton on the east coast; beautiful Gros Morne National Park, and also in and around the delightful ctity of St. John’s.
A fun way to get a taste of Newfoundland culture is to stay at A Schooner Inn, a small B&B outside St. John’s. (http://www.aschoonerinn.com/) Co-owner Colette Kavanagh is a character-and-a-half who likes to get willing guests up and dancing to roaring, sea-going tunes, and teach them how to make fried cod cheeks, a Newfoundland specialty.
Further north on Fogo Island, renowned as one of the four corners of the planet by Flat Earth believers, is a super-luxurious inn on a rocky oceanside plateau on Fogo Island that was opened a few years ago by Zita Cobb, a former high-tech worker on Wall Street. The food and design at Fogo Island Inn (https://fogoislandinn.ca/) are out-of-this world (whether you believe that world to be round or flat).
The Less Crowded Rockies
Pull up a chair and watch the sun fade into the sky at Cathedral Mountain Lodge in B.C. – JIM BYERS PHOTO
The British Columbia Rockies and the Kootenay Rockies are wonderful areas of B.C. You’ll find almost the same scenery as you would on the Alberta side, but much less traffic and tourism, with quirky, friendly little towns. Fernie has fun restaurants and a downtown you want to embrace with a warm hug. Kimberley has a bit of a German-Austrian flavor.
Your trip should include Yoho National Park (Yoho means “awe” in the Cree language), about three hours north of Kimberly and just a short drive east from Banff. It’s home to bears, cougars, mountain goats and other wildlife, plus Takakkaw Falls, a spectacular ribbon of water that tumbles 1,224 feet down a massive slab of grey stone. Also in Yoho: https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/yoho) Emerald Lake, such a deep-green you won’t need to photoshop your pictures, while luxurious Cathedral Mountain Lodge offers delicious food, if you’re up for a splurge, and spectacular views of ancient, craggy spires.
(https://www.cathedralmountainlodge.com/)
Lake Erie’s north side
The beach at Erieau is a beauty. The water’s nice and warm in summer, too. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The north shore of Lake Ere is a quiet, pastoral kind of place with weathered, old barns, engaging small towns and long, lonely beaches. Because Lake Erie is quite shallow, the water near shore often reaches the low-to-mid 80’s Fahrenheit in summer. The area is a great destination for a low-key road trip.
You could start a little south and east of Windsor, which is directly across the river from Detroit, in the adorable town of Kingsville. Here you’ll find handsome brick buildings and several very cool shops, including Dutch Boys Chocolate (http://www.dutchboyschocolate.com/). The owners make exquisite truffles and also fashion birds, dogs and other items out of rich, dark chocolate. Just a few steps away is a nice craft beer spot and hotel called The Grove Hotel/Brew House, serving up delicious ales, lagers and IPA’s. The hotel has a great front porch with rocking chairs and rooms done in a variety of styles. I’ve stayed in one that was done up like a Florida beach house, while another had a wall of old license plates and a fully functioning traffic light that blinked red, green and yellow (and, thankfully, can be turned off).
(https://breweatsleeprepeat.com/) You’ll also want to visit Pelee Island, a short ferry from Kingsville and the southernmost inhabited area of Canada. There’s a nice winery on the island and a couple of small B&B’s. The Anchor and Wheel Inn has a funky tiki bar that plays Jimmy Buffett and Bob Marley tunes and feels like something out of Key West. (http://www.anchorwheelinn.com/)
About four hours up the coast in St. Williams is Burning Kiln, an outstanding winery where the winemaker and almost all the senior staff are women and where you’ll find a new, outdoor concert space. There’s a glamor camping or “glamping” spot called Long Point Eco-Adventures, where you can stay in lovely canvas tents or “wilderness pods” with electricity and bathrooms. They’ll help arrange fishing trips, kayaking (and kayak fishing) in Long Point Bay, beer and wine tours, and other adventures. http://www.burningkilnwinery.ca/
The Yukon
I love the simplicity of this shot, taken at Kluane National Park in the Yukon.
This is one of the best destinations in Canada, with stunning scenery and a bucket full of colourful characters. Whitehorse is a surprisingly diverse city with good food and spectacular walks and hiking close to town, while the towering mountains and glaciers of Kluane National Park (http://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/yt/kluane/index) make it one of the great treasures of the country. The Carcross desert isn’t far away; an oddity of sand dunes that always makes me shake my head with wonder. Dawson City is a fantastic town, with quirky shops, the Jack London and Robert Service cabins, and great places to stay like Bombay Peggy’s, a former brothel turned into a lovely B & B with a great bar in the back (http://bombaypeggys.com/). For Yukon information, visit https://www.travelyukon.com/
Saskatoon
Try a ride on the Prairie Lily tour boat in Saskatoon for great views. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This is a city that has long punched above its weight, with beautiful parks along the South Saskatchewan River, cool hotels like the Delta Bessborough (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/yxedb-delta-hotels-bessborough/) and great food. They’ve given their cultural scene a huge boost with the recent opening of the new Remai Modern (https://remaimodern.org/b) , a stunning, brilliantly lit gallery on the banks of the river and steps from downtown Saskatoon. The museum features the largest collection of Picasso linocuts in the world and gorgeous display space for other works of art. You’ll find outstanding food at restaurants such as Sticks and Stones (http://www.sticksandstonesyxe.com/) (amazing Asian dishes), The Hollows (http://thehollows.ca/) , Odd Couple (http://www.oddcouple.ca/) and Little Grouse on the Prairie http://www.littlegrouse.com/welcome.html).
Eastern Townships of Quebec
The village of North Hatley, Quebec. JIM BYERS PHOTO
I’d driven through but had never spent any time in this part of Quebec until this summer. I loved the feel and the shops and the lake in North Hatley and had a wonderful meal at Ripplecove Lakefront Hotel and Spa, sitting mere steps from Lake Massawippi. Try the wine at Leon Courville, overlooking Lac Brome (http://www.leoncourville.com/en/home). The food and ambience are lovely at Auberge West Brome (https://www.awb.ca/en/) and you can’t beat a day or a night at Spa Eastman (http://www.spa-eastman.com/en/). Our youngest son got married in Knowlton a couple summers ago, so I have a soft spot for this small community, as well.
New Brunswick
The giant lobster in Shediac, New Brunswick. – JIM BYERS PHOTO
I haven’t spent a ton of time here, but I really enjoyed my brief visit to Saint John a few years ago. The city feels a bit like an Eastern, miniature version of San Francisco, with steep hills and beautiful old buildings. The people are fun and lively and there’s some very good shopping at independent shops along Prince William Street and other streets. (http://www.discoversaintjohn.com/). I also love the Acadian coastline, where you’ll find people proudly flying the pretty Acadian flag. Don’t miss a chance to snap a photo of the giant lobster in Shediac.
Sunshine Coast, British Columbia
Try Absolute Heaven in Sechelt for a great B & B on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia.
I’ve only been out that way once, but I loved the small towns and friendly people, not to mention the beautiful beaches. We had a great boat tour around Pender Harbour, and we loved our kayak ride around Sechelt Inlet with the folks from a company called Pedals and Paddles (https://pedalspaddles.com/). Gibsons Landing is a lovely town with a beautiful marina. Try Rockwater Secret Cove Resort (https://www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com/) for wonderful “glamping” style units, or check out Absolute Heaven B&B (http://www.absoluteheavenbb.com/) in Sechelt. I also loved Painted Boat Resort (https://paintedboat.com/).
Prince Edward Island
The chapel at the Bottle Houses at Cap Egmont, PEI. – JIM BYERS PHOTO
PEI is best known as the home of Anne of Green Gables, but it also has two small “villages” where folks have fashioned small buildings out of old wine bottles (with a bit of cement to hold them together). The one near Point Prim, quite close to the ferry from Nova Scotia, is called Hannah’s Bottle Village. The village near Cap Egmont is quite extensive (more than 25,000 bottles) and even includes a chapel. (https://bottlehouses.com/home)
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