I’m looking around at the Whetung Ojibwa Centre, a small country store on the Curve Lake First Nation reserve outside Peterborough. I admire the colourful artwork, dozens of styles of moccasins and sparkling jewelry, not to mention the walrus skulls and old, black and white photos in the basement. As I’m heading out, I spy a large collection of jams and jellies made with local berries.
To me, breakfast isn’t complete without toast and good jam, so I pick up a jar and head to the cash register.
The woman handing the register looks at me and smiles.
“Would you like it wrapped in paper?”
“No, thanks.”
“Would you like a bag?”
“No, thanks.”
“Would you like a spoon?”
I don’t remember the last time I laughed so hard.
The store was terrific, but it was only one of many highlights of my two visits to Peterborough and the Kawarthas late last summer. I also found brilliant places to enjoy unique natural attractions, a great brewery, one of North America’s most intriguing rock art displays and one of Canada’s most iconic museums.
Petroglyphs Provincial Park, which is about 45 minutes northeast of Peterborough, has been on my list of things to see for some time, and it definitely lived up to my expectations.
The main attraction here are hundreds of carvings etched into ancient limestone; work performed between 600 and 2,000 years ago by aboriginal Canadians. There are hundreds of carvings that feature everything from turtles and human figures to snakes and a spiritual being called a nanabush or nanabozho, with a human body and rabbit-like ears.
The rock is pockmarked with deep holes and crevasses and sits over the top of a small stream. Some believe that local aboriginal peoples felt that spirits lived under the rocks and that the sound of the rushing water were the voices of those spirits, speaking from the underworld. The carvings were kept secret as a holy place by Anishinabeg or Nishnaabe aboriginal peoples, who called the area Kinomaage-Waapkong, which means “The Teaching Rocks.”
One of the coolest drawings is a representation of what looks like a giant canoe. The guide who was at the centre when I visited told me some experts think it’s a Viking ship, while others believe it to be a native boat.
Ancient aboriginal Canadian rock carvings at Petroglyphs Provincial Park. PHOTO BY JIM BYERS TAKEN FROM BOOK DISPLAYED ON SITE
The carvings used to be several inches deep but the rocks, unprotected for centuries by rain and snow and wind, were slowly eroding. The rocks are now protected by a climate-controlled enclosure, which features an elevated walkway for ideal viewing.
The carvings are awesome, but the eroded rocks are an attraction in and of themselves; a huge, exposed slab of limestone that’s gouged and cracked and rattled by hundreds or probably thousands of years of exposure to the elements; mostly grey/beige but also rusty orange in parts.
Even though it’s climate controlled, the park is open only from May to early October (this year May 8 to October 12)
The visitor centre, which is said to be built in the shape of a beaver lodge, features wonderful displays about local aboriginal peoples, with vivid descriptions of everyday life in the region over the centuries and displays that talk about the power of women. One room features stone tools, animal furs and skulls and other tidbits. There’s also a nice gift shop where you can books, t-shirts, bug spray and other useful items, as well as snacks and water for your walk.
The video they show is a powerful and engaging film that goes far beyond the usual “just the facts” approach. There are several poignant, timely messages about modern man poisoning the earth and talk about how native people lived in harmony with nature.
There are lovely walking trails all around the park, with a pretty, blue-green lake (McGinnis Lake) and glorious fall colours.
Another great place to enjoy nature in the area is Warsaw Caves Conservation Area and Campground, where you’ll find glorious slabs of dark, ancient rock and large caves to explore. I didn’t have time for the caves, but I had a glorious walk through narrow paths flanked by towering rocks and dotted with enormous, deep green ferns. One of the trails leads to a terrific look-out spot high above the winding Indian River.
Early fall fern at Petroglyphs Provincial Park in Ontario. JIM BYERS PHOTO
One needs to keep one’s wits on this hike, as there are plenty of crevasses and steep drops to watch for. But I’m only a novice hiker, and I found it relatively easy. (If there’s been any rain in the area, I’d advise taking a walking stick. And be sure to wear boots or shoes with good treads). When I visited there had been some recent rain and the water was fairly high. Two inukshuks that someone built were knee-deep in a pretty pond.
The park also has a beach, camp sites and canoe/kayak rentals, so there’s tons to do.
One of the great attractions in Peterborough and the Kawarthas is the Canadian Canoe Museum, which is in the city of Peterborough. (They’ll be moving to new digs on the Trent-Severn Canal in 2023, just steps from downtown, in what is now a Parks Canada Visitors Centre. The museum is closed now due to COVID-19 but re-opens Saturday, July 25.)
Canoes, of course, played a vital role in the exploration of Canada by the white man, and by native Canadians before them. (Former Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau once said a Canadian is someone who knows how to make love in a canoe, but that’s another story entirely.)
Canadian Canoe Museum, Peterborough, Ontario. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The current museum is located in the old Peterborough Marine Factory building on Monaghan Road. As soon as you walk in you’re greeted with the sound of a rushing river, which sets the tone for an absolutely remarkable experience.
Visitors can find displays that tell incredible feats of fortitude and bravery from Canadian outdoors types and check out dozens of styles of canoes. You can gaze at the Little Canary Yellow Boat that Gordon Lightfoot once sang about, as well as admire Trudeau’s old buckskin jacket.
Native Canadian craft also are on display, and you can learn a great deal about the lives of aboriginal Canadians with a visit to the museum. You’ll find canoes from across Canada, including Quebec and British Columbia, as well as craft used in Fiji, Florida and Polynesia.
It’s not open to the public, but the museum has an enormous warehouse across the street with remarkable canoes and canoe-like structures from around the world, including reed boats from South America, boats made by German prisoners of war in Ontario during World War II and war canoes from New Guinea.
Former Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau’s buckskin jacket, on display at the Canadian Canoe Museum. JIM BYERS PHOTO
There are plans to build a large display area at the new museum, which will allow some of these treasures to be seen by the public. And that’s a great idea. The new centre also will have a large grass roof and lovely views of the Trent-Severn Canal.
Woman and man do not live by nature hikes and museums alone, and even a jar of tasty jam is probably not enough to get you through the day. Luckily, Peterborough and the Kawarthas are home to excellent restaurants and some tasty craft beer places.
My wife and I enjoyed a great meal at Publican House in downtown Peterborough, settling in to enjoy the last rays of sun on the patio on a fine afternoon. We sampled a fine wood-oven pizza with smoked pineapple, ham and red onions, with a few hot, green peppers tossed in for a bit of a kick. Even better was the black bean and sweet potato curry, which was rich and tasty and perfectly spiced.
Back inside, a lovely duo was playing some jazzy numbers in the bar, which is rich and inviting.
Our guide at the brewery took us through the intricacies of making a great craft beer and let us taste a number of offerings. They make lovely India Pale Ale’s that aren’t overly hoppy, as well as approachable, flavourful ales and lagers, and have won several major awards.
Craft beer at Publican House in Peterborough. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Many of the downtown shops were closed by the time we got into town but we enjoyed looking in the windows at placed like Naked Chocolate and a hip-looking coffee spot called The Kit. The city’s Pride Festival was right around the corner, and many of the shops ands restaurants were decked out with rainbow flags.
All in all, it was a great visit, with lovely nature all around, a marvelous museum and fabulous food. Now I just need to find that jar of jam. And maybe a spoon.
PREVIOUSLY PUBLISHED STORIES ON PETERBOROUGH AND THE KAWARTHAS
https://jimbyerstravel.com/2019/12/08/peterborough-the-kawarthas-terrific-towns-and-great-people/
MY ONTARIO ESCAPES BOOK
I recently published a book called Ontario Escapes: 19 Great Places to Visit Right Now. The book is mostly focused on natural areas and quiet corners of the province that are a good fit for the times we live in. I’ve got two chapters on Peterborough and the Kawarthas. The book is available on Apple Books for just $4.99.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: https://thekawarthas.ca/
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