Chicago is one of the world’s great cities, home to amazing architecture, sensational food and warm, welcoming people. Here are seven great things to see, do and eat, as well a wonderful place to lay your head at night, when you visit.
CHICAGO DOGS
Portillo’s main restaurant on Ontario Street downtown is as Chicago as it gets; a wild emporium packed with sports paraphernalia, old cars hanging from the ceiling and other kitschy but fun pieces. They serve everything from Italian beef sandwiches to massive salads and desserts big enough to feed the starting five of the Chicago Bulls NBA basketball team. This also is one of the great places in the city to try a classic Chicago dog, which is always made with beef and always comes with mustard, onions, tomatoes, sliced pickles, vivid green relish, pickled hot peppers and celery salt which, as they say here, is “dragged through the garden.”
GREAT MUSEUMS
The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the best museums on the planet; with everything from Van Gogh and Monet to ancient treasures from China and the Middle East. The piece de resistance is the installment featuring three windows done up by Marc Chagall in honour of America’s bicentennial in 1976. The blue glass shimmers and shines, and there are a million beautiful details. The museum’s architecture is equally appealing, with a stately, older wing and a stunning addition with a beautiful, minimalist courtyard. Culture fans also would do well to check out the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago , which is also right downtown. The exhibition on modern artist Virgil Abloh that was on recently was quite thought-provoking, as was a video on African-American life. The on-site restaurant, Marisol, is definitely worth checking out.
The Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago. JIM BYERS PHOTO
CLASSIC ITALIAN FOOD
Riccardo Trattoria is a classic Italian restaurant with a just right, old school feel. Located near sprawling Lincoln Park, just north of downtown, you’ll find dark furniture and simple photos on the wall. It’s the sort of place designed for food and conversation, not for Instagram influencers. And that’s a good thing. I couldn’t decide what pasta I wanted so the waiter brought me half-orders of an excellent bucatini carbonara and a very good veal ravioli with porcini, tomato and a light cream sauce. My wife’s Bolognese was excellent, and the Caesar Salads hit the jackpot. They have a huge selection of Italian wines, too.
A SLEEK HOTEL
Loews Chicago is a terrific hotel that’s a short two blocks from the shops on Michigan Avenue and a block from the parks and attractions that line the Chicago River. Rooms are good-sized and have all the modern conveniences, as well as superbly comfortable beds, floor-to-ceiling windows and a sleek, stylish design. The desk in our room had four electrical outlets and four USB spaces for device charging, as well as a Keurig coffee maker. There’s a nice outdoor café on the second floor, and a very good-sized indoor pool for swimming laps. They also put out pastries and cookies in the afternoon. The on-site ETA restaurant serves a lovely berry/granola parfait at breakfast, and terrific avocado toast on a perfectly charred slice of toast. It’s served with salmon, a poached egg and grapefruit.
TERRIFIC TACOS
Barcocina is a hip spot for tacos and other Mexican specialties, with a great patio and a lively, youthful feel. You’re just a short walk south of Wrigley Field, so it’s perfect for brunch if there’s a Cubs game being played. We sampled very good pineapple tacos with pork that were smoky and sweet. The chicken and waffles was good, but not nearly as tasty as the tacos. We also had nice house margaritas. They do an all-you-can-eat bottomless brunch that goes on for two hours, with all the food you can eat for $24.95 and all the food and drinks you can handle for $49.95.
Tacos at Bar Cocina, Chicago. JIM BYERS PHOTO
A FREE TOUR
Chicago Greeter Tours is a fabulous enterprise that matches up enthusiastic locals with visitors. The locals provide a free tour of an area they either live in or know and enjoy, and the tourists get a feel for what it might be like to live there. We did a fun tour of the Wicker Park/Bucktown area, northwest of downtown Chicago, with tons of young families and lots of neighborhood appeal. Tour stops included Stan’s for famous donuts, a look at the stately homes on Beer Baron’s Row, strolls past engaging shops and restaurants and a walk along the 606, a former elevated railway that’s now a popular park.
AWESOME STEAK
El Che Steakhouse and Bar is located in the trendy West Loop area of town, where you’ll find tons of start-up companies and hip restaurants. The hanger steak is tender, sweet and perfect. We also had great frites with parmesan and amazing broccoli with whipped feta, toasted pecans and a garlic-paprika emulsion. Grandma’s broccoli just won’t cut it after that. The drinks are just as good. Try La Mordida de Suarez, with rye, cynar, sherry and mole bitters. They have a nice happy hour with $7 cocktails and half-priced bar snacks, too.
