The phrase “game changer” gets thrown around a lot. For the Pearle Hotel and Spa in Burlington, it fits like a proverbial glove.
This is a truly luxurious, design-forward property on the shores of Lake Ontario, with the feel of a posh lakehouse and a tremendous food and drinks scene.
The design was done by Studio Munge, which has overseen several posh hotel designs in Canada, including the iconic Park Hyatt in Toronto’s Yorkville district.
A view of Lake Ontario from the Pearle Resort and Spa in Burlington. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The 151 guest rooms, which are beautifully appointed and feature floor-to-ceiling windows, are meant to reflect the richness of the changing Canadian seasons. There’s also beautiful, local art on display.
One of the things I love the most is how the hotel pays homage to Ciancone family’s grandmother, Pearle, who once owned a summer cottage where the hotel is now located. Hotel guests are encouraged to explore and write letters to the people who mean the most to them. The hotel makes it easy with paid postage and mailboxes inside the hotel.
A postcard at the Pearle Hotel and Spa in Burlington, Ontario. JIM BYERS PHOTO
My wife and I stayed recently and had a fabulous room with lots of pale wood, a huge marble desk, a soft, colourful painting over the bed and, a nice touch, a sofa at the foot of the bed for watching TV or reading. The bathroom was massive, with a beautiful, white soaker tub and a shower big enough for the starting five of the Toronto Raptors.
We had a small fridge in the room and a Nespresso coffee maker. I don’t recall seeing this before, but if it’s dark and you get out of bed a pale night light under the bed comes in so you don’t trip looking for the washroom.
A sunshine-filled room at the Pearle Hotel and Spa in Burlington, Ontario. PHOTO COURTESY PEARLE HOTEL AND SPA
Our room (332 if you’re curious) also had a huge terrace overlooking the lake and the Niagara peninsula in the distance.
It’s the first Marriott Autograph Collection hotel in all of Ontario, and that’s saying something.
The Pearle Spa, inspired by the spa at the Elora Mill, has 13 facials to choose from, a Hammam steam room. They also do manicures and pedicures. The spa tables have memory foam, and you can control the heat, the lights and the music. The indoor pool *hot tub) is glorious, with big windows all around.
The meeting room space is sunny and bright, with silvery blue overhead lights that resemble spreading lupine flowers.
The Pearle Hotel and Spa swimming pool in Burlington, Ontario. JIM BYERS PHOTO
The main floor coffee shop, Earth to Table Bread Bar, is well-known in Hamilton for great coffee and goodies. We had a perfect coffee latte and nice pastries and granola with yogurt when we visited. Everything is homemade, and they even have special ice cream called “smash-ins,” in which cookies and other baked goods are “smashed in” to a container of ice cream. Yum. For lunch, you can find everything from squash and apple sandwiches to Italian cold cuts and Porchetta. I’m told they’ll eventually serve pizza, too.
It’s a fine spot, but it’s their main restaurant, Isabelle, that really shines. Chef Ben Heaton, who has worked at Toronto restaurants as Byblos and Patria, has a flair for Mediterranean cuisine, and loves to add Middle Eastern touches such as za’taar spice. His Branzino with mint salsa verde uses caper leaves from Santorini.
We had superb King Ora salmon, maybe the best salmon we’ve ever tried, with mustard greens, turnips, n’duja (a spreadable salami) and XO sauce for an Asian kick, as well as outstanding strazopretti pasta cacio e pepe with pierre poivre peppercorn, goat butter and pecorino.
The food is exquisite at Isabelle Restaurant at the Pearle Hotel and Spa. PHOTO COURTESY PEARLE HOTEL AND SPA.
The idea is Ontario products with a global twist, and that’s exactly what you’ll get.
The cocktails also are inventive, and outstanding. I had a terrific margarita with sumac syrup, lime and Cointreau.
He also does a lamb shoulder with concord grapes, grape leaves, yogurt and za’atar. The Labneh is silky smooth and served with preserved corn, chermoula and green chili. We also loved the fried squash rings, light and crispy like good tempura, with lemon crema fresca, chili honey and mint. The wagyu beef also is crazy good.
Isabelle Chef Ben Heaton is a whiz with everything from pasta to fish, and beef to appetizers. PHOTO COURTESY PEARLE RESORT AND SPA
The property, owned by the Ciancone family, which created Pearle Hospitality in 1936, also owns a 100-acre farm nearby, so Heaton and other chefs in the company can access fresh produce most of the year. The family also owns the Elora Mill Hotel and Spa in southern Ontario, Spencer’s at the Waterfront restaurant in Burlington, Whistle Bear Golf Club in Cambridge, and Ancaster Mill.
Like I said, the hotel is a game changer for sure. And a wonderful addition to the southern Ontario food and hospitality scene.
