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The Romantic Hawaiian Islands: A Frequent Visitors’ Guide

This story originally appeared in Today’s Bride magazine.

The Hawaiian islands are justifiably known as one of the most romantic places on earth; a land with deep green, jungle-clad mountains, golden beaches and sunsets in shades of pink and orange that don’t need any help from Photoshop. But which one is right for you? Read on for some tips from a travel writer and Hawai’i lover who’s been more than two dozen times.

MAUI

A couple walking on Napili Beach, Maui. The Napili Kai Beach Resort is in the background. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Sunsets are romantic just about anywhere in the world, but they’re especially dramatic on the west side of Maui, where puffy tropical clouds add just the right touch of context and a series of nearby islands provide dramatic relief. Most major resorts on Maui do nightly torch-lighting ceremonies at sunset, usually with fit, bare-chested young Hawaiian men doing the honours. One of the best ceremonies is at the Sheraton Maui on beautiful Ka’anapali Beach, where the torch lighter clambers out onto a gnarly set of black rocks, sounds a conch shell and then does a perfect dive into the Pacific Ocean. There’s also a torch-lighting every evening at the Napili Kai Beach Resort, a low-key spot just up the road that’s owned by folks from British Columbia. There’s no charge to watch, but we recommend setting in with a refreshing Mai Tai at the hotel’s Sea House beach bar to round out the experience. The Ka’anapali Beach Hotel is on a great stretch of miles-long Ka’anapali Beach and recently renovated their rooms. They have free Hawaiian programs, such as hula dancing or ukelele lessons, as well as a free, nightly show that’s open to guests and non-guests alike. A great choice for money-conscious travellers is the Plantation Inn in Lahaina, which has nice rooms and a small pool, and is just a few feet from Front Street, the main drag for shopping and restaurants.

HAWAI’I BIG ISLAND

Hapuna Beach on Hawai’i Big Island. JIM BYERS PHOTO

One of the state’s most expansive and romantic resorts is the Four Seasons Hualalai on the west or Kona coast of Hawai’i Big Island, which is the size of all the other Hawaiian islands put together. You can have your dinner right on the sand and watch the sun go down and the stars come out while they mix fresh poke right at your table. Or try the spa for a relaxing and romance-inducing couples massage with rhythmic, ancient Hawaiian Lomi Lomi techniques. The west side or Kona side of the island has the sun, but the east side of Hawai’i Big Island is home to a series of stunning waterfalls, including Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls, which is only a couple minutes’ drive from downtown Hilo, the main city on the island. The Hilo Hawaiian is a fine property, with nicely appointed rooms, a restaurant and a pool. Hapuna Beach is one of the best beaches on the island. Also, don’t miss funky, small towns such as Hawi.

KAUA’I

A boat ride along the Na Pali coast of Kauai is a magical experience. JIM BYERS PHOTO

Fish splashing in deep ponds of cool water, with flickering tiki torches all around and a warm tropical breeze wafting past. A poolside dinner at Tidepools restaurant at the posh Grand Hyatt Kaua’i Resort and Spa at Po’ipu Beach is a great way to get the evening off to a good start. A strong tropical drink won’t hurt your mood, either. You can make a full day of it, or just take an hour or two, but a hike along the Na Pali cliffs on north Kauai takes you high up over a rugged coast with white sand beaches, deep green jungles and brilliant blue waves crashing against the iron-rich, red stone cliffs. It’s probably the best hike in the state. Sounds like too much work? Try a boat tour of the Na Pali cliffs area from the town of Waimea on the island’s west side. You can snorkel or watch for dolphins or whales, too. Hanalei is a wonderful, relaxed town on the north shore. One of the wonders of Hawai’i is Waimea Canyon on Kaua’i, sometimes called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Try the Cliffs at Princeville for lovely, spacious condo units. I’ve never had the pleasure of staying there, but I love the look of Hanalei Colony Resort.

O’AHU

Hanauma Bay State Park on Oahu. JIM BYERS PHOTO

You don’t want to go to Hawai’i without seeing natives perform the hula; a Polynesian dance that drove old-time sailors crazy with lust and might be one of the most sensuous dances on the planet. You can buy tickets to a full luau and have a nice meal and great dancing, but the shows they put on at Waikiki Beach are just as good, and they’re free. The shows take place at Waikiki’s Kuhio Beach Park on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday nights at sunset, weather permitting. You’ll get a nice view of the sun going down while you enjoy the performances. An early morning hike (it’s not long or hard, but a flashlight is recommended) to watch the sun come up over the Pacific from the crest of the extinct Diamond Head volcano crater is a dreamy way to start your day. Nearby Hanauma Bay is one of the best places in the state for snorkelling. The dreamy, pink Royal Hawaiian is one of the original hotels in Waikiki and still one of the best. Another great option on the west side of the island is the Four Seasons Resort O’ahu Ko Olina, which has outstanding food and a protected beach. It’s right alongside the Disney Aulani Resort. The VIVE Hotel is a hip spot in Waikiki that’s just a short walk from the beach.

LANA’I

The remake of the Four Seasons Resort Lanai is a smashing success. JIM BYERS PHOTO

The Four Seasons Lana’i at Manele Bay was redone a few years ago and now resembles a perfect South Seas retreat, with deep, dark swimming pools surrounded by flaming red ginger plants and deep yellow and pink bougainvillea. It’s truly stunning. The hotel can lead you on a morning hike to watch the sunrise near towering Pu’u Pehe Rock, a towering rock formation in the ocean known in English as Lover’s Rock. The story goes that an ancient Hawaiian warrior was so jealous that someone would woo his beautiful lover that he hid her away inside a cave inside the rock. The tides came in high one day and she drowned. The warrior buried her on top of the rock and then leapt 25 meters to his death. Sad, but definitely romantic. The hotel has a Nobu restaurant and offers relaxing sunset cruises on a smooth-riding catamaran. The new Sensei Lanai Four Seasons Resort is being billed as a “Sensei Experience,” with a focus on wellness packages and quiet retreats. It opened a little more than two years ago in the hills near tiny Lana’i City. If the Four Seasons is a little rich for your blood, try the remodeled Hotel Lana’i in Lana’i City. Some of the rooms have front porches where you can watch the world go by. The hotel also has a Chinese restaurant called Chengdu Taste. If you’re looking for good, filling, inexpensive food, try Blue Ginger in Lana’i City for specialties such as Chicken Katsu, Mahi Mahi or Roast Pork.

MOLOKAI

One of several small beaches on the east end of Molokai. JIM BYERS PHOTO

If your idea of romance is getting away from it all, this is your island. You won’t find any resorts, but there are nice condos for rent (I love the Wavecrest) and a casual but nice hotel called Hotel Molokai, which has with lovely grounds covered with tropical plants and towering palm trees, as well as perfect hammocks under the shade of massive trees. You can have dinner at an oceanside table under the flickering light of a tiki torch while local musicians play soft, Hawaiian tunes. The remote Halawa Valley on east Molokai is reached by a lovely drive that winds past small, deserted beaches and tiny, weathered, wooden churches. On the west side, Papohaku Beach is a five-kilometer stretch of gold/white sand that’s often deserted. I was there on a fine morning in July two summers ago, and I could spot only three or four people on the entire stretch.