With U.S. President Donald Trump seemingly bent on imposing stiff tariffs on Canadian goods sent to the States, and with lingering talk of Canada becoming a 51st state, Canadians are increasingly looking to stay home and explore their own country this year.
With that in mind, here’s a story I posted a while back on Montreal, one of the great cities of the world. It’s a wonderfully cosmopolitan destination with a remarkable history, amazing neighborhoods to explore and a wonderful waterfront.
We’re all trying to save money these days, so here are five things to do in the city for less than $50 (Canadian dollars, ahem, not U.S.)
MARKET EXPLORATION AND A CANAL BIKE RIDE
Parks Canada chairs along the Lachine Canal in Montreal. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Atwater Market is a marvellous spot just west of downtown. You’ll find fun shops that sell all sorts of special items; everything from brilliantly-coloured macaroons in shades of vivid pink and lime green to sushi and sausages. This being Quebec, you’ll also find amazing pastries (try Premiere Moisson for great bread and sandwiches) and wonderful cheeses from around the world. The market is located on the edge of both Little Burgundy and Saint-Henri, two of the city’s trendiest neighbourhoods, and is directly alongside the Lachine Canal, which is a destination in and of itself. You could drive or take transit, but the best option from downtown in good weather is to ride a BIXI bike, which you can rent for $1.50, plus 20 cents a minute. An hour would be $13.50. (They also have electric bikes for a higher rate.) You can ride along the canal for much of the ride to Atwater Market, which is only a few kilometers from downtown Montreal. In the Little Italy area of Montreal’s north end, the Jean-Talon market is one of the largest open-air markets in the world. You’ll find wonderful produce in summer, as well as gourmet food shops and fresh flowers.
THE OLD PORT
The zip line in old Montreal. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Montreal’s Old Port is a wonderful destination along the St. Lawrence River. There’s no charge to wander about and enjoy the scenery but some activities cost a few dollars. It’s $28 for adults to catch the exhibitions at the Montreal Science Centre, with discounted prices for teens, children and seniors. They also have family packages. If you want to catch a movie at the IMAX Theatre, it’s a little extra. https://www.montrealsciencecentre.com/ A one-hour boat ride with the folks from Le Bateau-Mouche is a fun way to get out on the water and see the city from a different perspective. It costs $34.99 for adults for a one-hour trip, with reduced prices for kids and seniors. The Big Wheel ferris wheel offers amazing views of the St. Lawrence and the city of Montreal and costs $27.50 for adults. There’s also a cool zipline (too scary for me) at the same price.
THE GREAT BAGEL DEBATE … AND A BONUS SANDWICH
Schwartz’s Deli. Photo Courtesy Tourism Montreal
Montreal bagels might be the world’s best; a slightly sweet bagel that’s dipped in honey and water before being cooked in a wood-burning oven. The two best-known spots are only a few blocks apart in the Mile End District; Fairmount and St.-Viateur. Ah, but which is best? “Honestly, if you closed your eyes you probably couldn’t tell them apart,” one Montreal tour guide told me a couple years ago. “You basically make your choice as a kid and from then on it’s ‘Until death do us part.’” Wilensky’s is a fun, old-time lunch spot near Fairmount Bagels that was made famous by Mordecai Richler. Ask for the Wilensky Special ($4.75), which is all-beef bologna and all-beef salami on a grilled roll with mustard. Do NOT ask for substitutions. If you want to splurge (ha), you can add cheese and spend $5.19 for your sandwich. Montreal smoked meat fans flock to Schwartz’s for amazing sandwiches. The smoked meat sandwich is $14.99, and you can order it lean (boo) or with some extra fat, which provides a lot of the flavour. Pastrami? No way. I’ll take Montreal smoked meat (always with yellow mustard) any day. A turkey or salami sandwich is $11.50 if you’re somehow not a fan of smoked meat.
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
The Museum of Fine Arts in Montreal. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This is a huge complex that features several buildings connected via underground tunnels, which is quite useful for winter or a rainy day. There’s a vast array of thought-provoking art of all varieties from all over the world, as well as a fine sculpture garden. One of the most unusual things you’’ll see is a painting by Cree artist Kent Monkman called Trilogy of St. Thomas, which shows a white explorer making off with a native Canadian who’s wearing a headdress of traditional feathers and high heels. Could be a tough one to explain to the kids but it’s fun. You’ll also find amazing, 13th century carvings from Iran and lovely works from Canada’s renowned Group of Seven. https://www.mbam.qc.ca/ I looked for a ticket for April 10 and found it costs $27 for adults 26 and older, and that it’s FREE for anyone 25 or younger. Nice.
OLD MONTREAL
Place d’Armes in Old Montreal. JIM BYERS PHOTO
There’s no charge to wander about the old part of the city, which is one of the great treasures in Canada. You’ll find trendy clothing stores and other shops, great galleries and dozens of restaurants. For breakfast, I love Olive et Gourmando, where they make amazing granola. http://oliveetgourmando.com/ Pointe-a-Calliere is a cool museum focused on the city’s history and archaeology. You’ll find amazing ruins that date back centuries to the city’s very beginnings, as well as historic artefacts and ongoing exhibitions. There’s currently an exhibition about Vikings. Entry is $29 (including tax) for adults, with discounts for seniors and children.
BONUS PICK
Mount Royal is a definite highlight of any trip to beautiful Montreal. JIM BYERS PHOTO
There’s no charge to explore Mount Royal Park, one of the great urban parks in the world. Stroll forested paths and enjoy fine views of the city for zero dollars. The park was designed by none other than Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed New York City’s Central Park and many other beauties.
