This was posted on my site following a trip to Jamaica a few years ago.
JAMAICA – Almost everyone knows Montego Bay. Ditto for Ocho Rios and Negril. But for many visitors, Portland Parish in the north eastern end of Jamaica is almost unknown. Which is a shame, because it’s one of the most captivating and beguiling areas of this beautiful country; a region of quiet, almost empty beaches, excellent food and outstanding, independent hotels.
Here’s one frequent visitor’s suggestions on great things to see and do in Portland Parish and northeast Jamaica.
BEACHES
Boston Bay is a true gem; a quiet spot a few minutes east of Port Antonio along a beautiful coastline. There are massive headlands on both sides, giving the bay plenty of protection from big waves. It’s a great spot for swimming, and they also have change rooms. When I was last there, the fellow who runs the concessions told me the government is building a new road that will help open the region up to more visitors. Another outstanding stretch of sand can be found at Frenchman’s Cove Provincial Park, a small sliver that’s been gently placed between a pair of high cliffs. A small, freshwater stream can be found behind the beach, complete with a rope swing. Idyllic doesn’t begin to describe this beach.
HOTELS
Trident Hotel, Portland Parish, Jamaica. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Goblin Hill has a series of understated units that sit high on a bluff overlooking a beautiful bay. There’s a truly relaxed, Jamaican feel to the place, as well as a pool, a pretty nature trail and vast, green lawns that are a perfect place for kids to burn off some energy. Condo-style units have full kitchens.
Trident is a posh spot on the water owned by Jamaican-Canadian Michael Lee Chin that feels more Miami than Montego Bay; with gleaming, modern touches all around and a sleek, sexy feel. There’s a protected lagoon for swimming and snorkelling. My room had a private plunge pool just a few feet from the ocean. Excellent food and superb craft cocktails can be found at the restaurant, Mike’s Supper Club. There’s also a spa, and a remarkable castle next door.
Perched on a plateau alongside Boston Bay, Great Huts is a truly wondrous spot that features treehouse-like units that make you feel like you’re Robinson Crusoe, as well as beautiful rooms in a standard building style. Expect to find plenty of gorgeous African and Jewish art amid a jungle-like setting that you have to see to believe.
DINING
Dickie’s Best Kept Secret is a fantastical restaurant on the water in Portland Parish, Jamaica. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Geejam serves as a restaurant, hotel and recording studio all in one; a striking spot on a hill overlooking the water. Past visitors include Tom Cruise, Alicia Keys and Drake. Try dinner at the Bush Bar, where you can enjoy wonderful, fresh cuisine (I had a creamy shrimp dish that was marvellous) overlooking the coast.
Jerked food is said to have had its origins around Boston Bay, where escaped slaves or folks hoping to avoid capture by slave traders would hide in the woods and cook their food slowly, without any visible smoke that might give away their location. Boston Bay is home to several authentic jerk stands that serve sizzling chicken or pork served over local food. The hot sauce here packs a wallop, so go easy your first time.
Back near Port Antonio, Dickie’s Best Kept Secret is a delightfully ramshackle restaurant that spills down a small hill towards the blue Caribbean sea. The interior is filled with all sorts of bits and pieces of furniture and crazy knick-knacks, including bobblehead baseball dolls and Barack Obama photos.
OTHER THINGS TO DO
Rafting the Rio Grande in Jamaica. JIM BYERS PHOTO
A rafting trip down the Rio Grande river on a flat, wooden raft lets you enjoy beautiful valley scenery and a few minor rapids that local guides navigate with ease. You’ll probably stop for a fine lunch on a nice stretch of beach before you resume your trip down the river. Be sure to tip your guide; these guys work awfully hard.
Check out Musgrave Market in Port Antonio for everything from fruits and veggies to wildly-coloured running shoes and local nutmeg. A bag of jerk spices will cost a fraction of what you’d pay in Canada. Friday and Saturday mornings are busiest.
Comments on this entry are closed.
A positive take on Portland Parish we hope as covid19 subsidies people will look to Portland as an alternative destination.
Mr. Carr ….. what gives you the authority to speak about Portland like that 😊
I am from Jamaica living in the United States and all of this is so new to me. I love it a lot and I have to make it a part of my itinerary on my next trip to Jamaica, which is in three months time.
It’s like I can’t wait.
What a delight to read your article about our favorite place. We agree with your positive opinion of Port Antonio. One very cool missing piece are the historic private villas in the area which some owners rent. Near the Blue Lagoon and in SanSan there are probably a dozen or more. This British Colonial style hospitality is still going strong here. I listed Norse Hill above, where my wife & I bought several years ago, but there are several here, and they come with complete staff. Hopefully more guests will come in 2022, this area was hurt by the pandemic and this part of Jamaica was already not very frequented.
Thank you for letting folks know of this beautiful undiscovered jewel!
You discovered the private side of Jamaica!
Did you get the opportunity to visit any of the private villas on the Blue Lagoon or SanSan?
If not let me know and you can have a complementary stay in our beloved Norse Hill Estate & Botanical Gardens in SanSan.
I did not, Al. But I would love to try on my next visit to Jamaica. Thank you!
Hello Jim,
So glad you enjoyed your time in Jamaica. Al Merritt asked me to reach out to you and see when you would like to enjoy a complimentary stay at Norse Hill Estate & Botanical Garden in SanSan. It is a lovely property with so much beauty and history we think you would very much appreciate.
I’d be happy to accommodate you and provide you with any details about Norse Hill. We look forward to your reply.
Best,
Ashlee
Hi, Ashlee. I replied to Al earlier. Not sure when I’ll be back in Jamaica but I’d love to try the estate!!
Thank you
Jim
Also, for future reference, my email is jim@jimbyerstravel.com. Phone: 416-540-4361
Cheers!
I’m very interested in getting information on your property in Norse Hill. I have stayed at GeeJam several times and would like to try another place.
My father Ronald J Williams did the landscaping and designed the gardens at Norse Hill. Its always wonderful to visit and see how beautiful Norse Hill has remained
A correction the orgin of jerk .
The maroons jerk there meat to preserve it for there trips to sea , boston bay was there fishing port where they traveled from moore town to fish.
My apologies!!
Hey Patrick.
I hear you.
Thanks for sharing this beautiful tribute to this amazing place. I feel the same and it’s a shame that this beautiful gift of nature gets lost in shuffle while millions of dollars are spent promoting other locations. Thanks again next time visit Reach Falls. NY adopted me but Portland is the place of my birth ❤️🏝🌞
Although I wholeheartedly agree Portland is a gem and my favourite parish. It has long been frequented by backpackers like me. Might be nice if mass tourism takes a swerve though, the beauty of Portland is its authenticity, if big resorts find a home there it will soon change the vibe of the place and will turn in to the next Negril/Ocho Rios/Montego Bay. I for one would hate to see that happen
I get it, Lucy. That’s the trouble with travel writing, or one of the troubles. I like to highlight lesser known areas that deserve attention, but I hate the idea of helping turn Portland into MoBay II. thanks for the note.
You forgot to mention the out of Eden tropical rainforest Somerset Falls just outside of Hope Bay, the beloved childhood hometown of Jamaican/Canadian cultural icon and Ambassador the late Claudia Denise Oates- Jones.
I am a returning Jamaican resident after 41 years in the USA. I did not know about this place. I will have to visit when my friends come to visit me. Thanks for the info.
Jim,
Thank you for the time and effort you took to writing this article. I’m almost reluctant to supporting your assertion that Port Antonio is the next great Jamaica resort. Because I’m afraid the crowds, all inclusive and environmental degradation will follow.
I was just there 2 weeks ago, had dinner then breakfast at GeeJam/ Bush Bar. Stayed at Pimento Lodge Resort in Long Bay, climbed the breathtaking Reach Falls and took my wife rafting down the Rio Grande.
I always stop at the craft market to get a new carving from my old friend Rock bottom.
Ah I miss Port Antonio already.
Mark-
Thanks for the note, Mark.
This is a perfect write-up on Portland. Even the locals find Port Antonio/Portland to be an intriguing escape. There is always something interesting to see in this lush and peaceful parish. Unmistakably beautiful!❤🇯🇲
Thank you
My pleasure, Maureen. Thank you!
Well said I have been there myself the blue lagoon, Boston pork .a beautiful place in Jamaica
Port Antonio is a principal location for cruise ships long before the north coast became renowned for visiting.
@JimByers – Thanks for spotting Portland, however, it would have been more helpful to describe the raft as bamboo made instead of as solely a wooden water transport.
Your readers are more informed by providing us with more qualifying details.
Anyone know about Nanny falls? Portland is such an awesome parish and lots of “to be discovered gems. Proud to be Jamaican but sad I don’t get the time to explore more