OCEANSIDE – Visitors to this southern California seaside town will still find remnants of the days when it was best known as a place for soldiers stationed at nearby Camp Pendleton to blow off steam. There are old-style movie theatres and diners, and a number of barber shops proudly flying the Stars and Stripes and offer haircuts for as little as $11.
But things have begun to change. A new Wyndham hotel appeared a few years ago. SpringHill Suites by Marriott followed. And then came the Mission Pacific and the Seabird, two sparkling, boutique hotels with rooftop bars sprung up in former parking lots overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Goodbye, greasy bacon and eggs, hello avocado toast.
“Fifteen years ago, nobody wanted to come downtown,” says Kim Heim, director of a civic group called Main Street Oceanside. “There would be military guys in the bars and fights spilling out in the streets.”
(I did a little research on the history of the town and read that there used to be billboards along the highway advising folks to “Tan Your Hide in Oceanside.”)
Heim decided a street market might bring in folks who’d been hesitant to venture downtown. There were some early clashes, “but eventually the interests of the many outweighed the interests of the few,” he said.
The public adopted what’s called the Sunset Market, which takes place on Thursdays from 5 to 9 p.m. Heim says they get 400,000 people a year.
The Thursday night street market in Oceanside, California. JIM BYERS PHOTO
During the day, you’ll find vendors selling t-shirts, candles and California-themed gear. At night, the vendors are supplemented by roughly 100 food trucks, offering everything from Greek food to genuine Thai and thick, rich cream puffs.
Heim treated my wife and I to a large plate of southern-Thailand-style Pad Thai, which has a hint of coconut and is utterly fabulous. We also tried the cream puffs, which were excellent.
“I wanted food to be the real focus,” Heim says. “And I wanted it to be authentic. The empanada truck is run from a fellow from Venezuela. The Pad Thai truck is run by a family from Thailand.”
The market was flooded with people from all walks of life on the night we visited. People noshed on ribs North African-style chicken Hong Kong noodles as they walked along the market’s four city blocks, which are closed off to cars. On the edge of the market, a woman of a certain age was sitting alone singing showtunes your grandmother would know. In the middle of the action, a large band was playing the ska tune “Monkey Man.”
Heim said he’s not sure the market would work in Del Mar or La Jolla, both posh suburbs of San Diego. But it fits in Oceanside, attracting diverse people from both San Diego County and nearby Orange County.
Kim Heim, Director, Main Street Oceanside. JIM BYERS PHOTO
“People like to rub elbows with other people in an authentic setting,” Heim tells me. “Here you’ll find people who can’t rub two nickels together mingling with millionaires. And you can’t tell them apart.”
The most grabby new arrivals in town are the Mission Pacific Hotel and Seabird Resort, both flashy properties managed by Hyatt with rooftop pools and bars, plenty of colourful local art, and a distinctly youthful feel.
The Mission Pacific has an outstanding top floor bar with craft cocktails and fine views of the city and the beach, including Oceanside’s 1,942-foot-long (592 meter) pier, said to be the longest wooden pier on the west coast of the U.S. There’s also a lovely pool.
Seabird is a bit more family-oriented and shows “dive-in” movies at the rooftop pool. You’ll also find a fun games room with pool tables and vivid, primary colours.
The rooftop pool at the Mission Pacific Hotel in Oceanside, California. JIM BYERS PHOTO
“The hotels were game changers for Oceanside,” said Mission Pacific Marketing Manager Alison Norwood. “This was the largest beachfront development in San Diego County in the last 50 years.”
Resting on the front side of the Mission Pacific is a fine Victorian home that was moved here from another part of town. It was the beach house featured in the original Top Gun movie. The house displays memorabilia from the movie and also has a shop that sells miniature pies (see below).
If you need to work off one of the ice-cream pies, try renting a bike and taking a ride along the city’s paved coastal trail. Another great way to work up a sweat is a kayak ride in the tidy Oceanside harbor, where you’ll find everything from humble houseboats to gleaming yachts
The harbor also is home to massive sea lions, who sometimes rest on a raft that was built for them but seem to prefer lounging on the back section of whatever boat tickles their fancy. Take a minute to admire some of the clever boat names as you glide along, including Deep Devocean, Liquid Liability and Kelpless, which perhaps belongs to a Neil Young fan.
Oceanside is home to the beach house featured in the original Top Gun movie. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Tucked up in the hills east of town you’ll find Mission San Luis Rey, the largest of the 21 missions built by Spanish explorers who were trying to convert local Indians to Christianity and settle on their land. It’s a beautiful, white structure with soaring arches and a pretty chapel. There’s also a nice museum that tells the story of the Spanish missions, as well as the indigenous people who have lived here for thousands of years.
Back downtown, is the fine Oceanside Museum of Art. When we visited we found a wide array of paintings including wild pop art, sunny landscapes, wavy, metallic sculptures, and work by local Black artists.
A short walk away is the Oceanside Surf Museum, which displays a monstrous, heavy wood board board used by Duke Kahanamoku and the board that legendary surfer Bethany Hamilton was riding in Hawaii when she was attacked by a shark and lost her arm. The store also sells surf books, coffee mugs, and vintage Hawaiian shirts. Oceanside is a top surfing spot in southern California, and there’s a surf school if you want to give it a shot.
IF YOU GO
SLEEPING
The Mission Pacific is a gorgeous boutique property across the street from the beach that’s part of the JDV by Hyatt collection. Most rooms have at least a partial ocean view.
The lobby of the Mission Pacific Hotel in Oceanside, California. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Next door, The Seabird Resort, a Destination by Hyatt property, is a little more youthful and flashy, but just as well done. There’s also a lovely spa, and a small kiosk selling Top Gun paraphernalia. Both hotels have tons of local art that’s curated by the Oceanside Museum of Art.
DINING
Craft Coast Tacos and Beer serves up nice, local beers and good tacos. I thought the guacamole needed some spice.
Beach Break Cafe is a great, surf and skateboard-themed breakfast spot in south Oceanside. The avocado omelette appeared to have half an avocado stuffed inside, and the eggs came with a small mountain of potatoes.
The Lab Collaborative serves up everything from burgers and pasta to jerk pork and steak salad. The wine prices were quite reasonable when we visited.
We enjoyed tasty cocktails at the rooftop bar at the Mission Pacific Hotel rooftop bar. Try the
“Moonlight” cocktail with gin, Prosecco, strawberry, hibiscus, and lemon.
The Mission Pacific has a breakfast/lunch spot called High/Low, with great coffee drinks and a nice patio. We sat outside at lunch and had a nice Chinese chicken salad and a very good tri-tip steak sandwich with grilled onions and provolone cheese.
Just a few steps from the Mission Pacific Lobby is the beach house from Top Gun, which houses a small food shop called “High Pie.” They serve miniature pies that you can order in normal fashion or with an ice cream center. Double yum.
Oceanside, California is home to the longest wooden pier on the west coast of the United States. JIM BYERS PHOTO
DOING
The Oceanside Pier is a fine place to take in the sunset or watch surfers in action.
Kayaking: Boats for Rent offers up kayaks for $30 for an hour, or $40 for two hours. They also have stand-up paddleboards, electric boats and other rentals. There’s a nice village at the harbor, with a waterfront restaurant, small shops and a coffee place.
Mission San Luis Rey is a great spot for anyone interested in California history.
The California Surf Museum is a must-visit for anyone who enjoys surfing, or watching surfers in action.
The Oceanside Museum of Art is a bright, compact spot for art lovers.
The Sunset Market is a terrific spot to mingle with locals, and save on a nice meal.
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