Molokai and Lanai: Two Islands, Two Approaches to Hawaii Tourism

I’m heading to the Hawaiian islands of Molokai and Lana’i next week, with five days scheduled for Molokai and three on Lanai. (Also perhaps four days on Maui to report on how things are going as they recover from the dreadful fires).

I love both Molokai and Lana’i. Both are laid-back and super quiet, but they are quite different in many ways. Molokai is larger and has a good deal more geographic variety, including a moist east side, towering mountains, and the world’s tallest sea cliffs. About 7,400 people live on the island. Lanai is about one-half the size of Molokai and is mostly dry, with some 3,100 residents. 

But it’s their approaches to tourism that sparked me to write this story for the Los Angeles Times a few years ago. I doubt things have changed that much in terms of how residents of each island feel about tourism, but I may have a different answer after next week.

Here’s the story I filed to the Times in September of 2019.

On Lana’i, they’re putting the finishing touches on a multi-million-dollar remake of the old Four Seasons Lodge at Koele, which is being turned into a sumptuous spa/wellness retreat. (Editor’s note: It’s now Sensei Lana’i, a Four Seasons Resort, and it’s unbelievably beautiful.) The sister hotel, Four Seasons Resort Lana’i, has rooms that usually go for $1,000 a night.

Teams of gardeners wander the tidy streets that border Dole Park in Lana’i City, picking up offending white and yellow plumeria leaves that have tumbled to the ground and trimming the grass around the restored movie theater, which has a lawn lush enough to make an Augusta National greenskeeper weep with envy.

Some 98 per cent of Lana’i is owned by Larry Ellison, the co-founder and executive chairman of Oracle. His Lana’i restoration team, called Pulama Lana’i, has nearly 400 workers on the payroll and is frantically working to restore ancient fishponds and plant new forests in areas ravaged by wild deer and goats. Ellison’s team has rebuilt the theater, opened a posh new public swimming pool, built a fancy basketball court for the only school on Lana’i, and is constructing 10 massive, hydroponic gardens to reduce the island’s dependence on imported food.

Roughly nine miles away on the island of Molokai, the Kaluakoi Resort has been shuttered for more than a decade, when the owners closed shop and laid off more than 100 workers. Shrubs and small trees sprout from what used to be a pristine, 18-hole golf course. There’s only one hotel on the island, the Hotel Molokai, a stylish but casual place that has rooms from around $120 (note: that was 2019, and prices seem to have gone up considerably).

The ferry that used to bring passengers to Molokai from Maui closed a few years ago, which means you can only get here by air or a private boat. Scattered about the islands are a few small signs that suggest visitors are more than welcome to come for a spell, but that the locals hope it’s not permanent.

The Singapore-based Molokai Land Ranch group owns roughly one-third of the island but seemingly has no interest in doing anything with the land except selling it, with a reported asking price of $260 million. Where Pulama Lanai has nearly 400 employees, the nearest thing you’ll find on its neighboring island, the Molokai Land Trust, has only four full-time workers. They rely on their small staff and volunteers to do vital environmental work, including the clearing of some of the Molokai Land Ranch property of invasive kiawe trees, which have crowded out native species and birds.

When I visited Molokai two years ago, I sat at the Hotel Molokai one morning and gazed over at Lanai, thinking about the difference in approaches the two islands seem to be taking. It’s like Lanai is a starlet with millions of Instagram followers and Molokai is Greta Garbo; she just wants to be left alone.

I came back to both islands this past summer. And, as one does, I found things aren’t quite as starkly delineated or as simple as I thought. Not everyone on Lanai is gaga over the direction the island is taking. And not everyone on Molokai is pleased that there’s no longer a resort with a posh golf course or a place for a splashy dinner.

Still, these neighbor islands  – both ideal spots for folks looking for a taste of the quiet side of Hawaii –  are definitely looking at tourism in distinct ways.

If you drive from the main town of Kaunakakai towards east Molokai, you’ll see a green-and-white sign on the right hand side of the road that says “Visit. Spend. Go Home.” Further east, as you near the pristine Halawa Valley, you’ll see another hand-written sign. This one, in part, advises visitors that “Aloha is not an invitation to move here. Respect Molokai and her people.”

“Those signs do not represent Molokai,” said Jule Kamakana, who runs the Kamakana Country Store outside Kaunakakai. “A lot of people wish those signs weren’t there.”

Sitting under a wind-whipped tarp on west Molokai, where the Molokai Land Trust is doing a lot of their work, land trust project coordinator Josiah Ching tells me he’d be happy if someone renovated the Kaluakoi resort.

“I mean, it’s already there and it’s not attractive the way it is. Someone a few years came in and said they wanted to build a resort and golf course on the southwest tip of the island. That’s sacred land and people are very much opposed to that. But to redo the resort? I don’t see a problem.”

Ching and others I spoke with said part of the reason for the anti-development current on Molokai is a lack of trust.

“When Molokai Ranch didn’t get the development they wanted they shut everything down,” Ching said. “There’s a lot of bad feelings about that, but some people take it to an extreme.”

“The island can’t live without visitors,” said Greg Solatorio, who lives in the Halawa Valley with his father and runs cultural tours that include waterfall hikes and talks about Molokai culture. “We don’t want Waikiki. It would be okay if the resort came back, but it would be nice if it was educational. We don’t need more hotels handing out plumeria leis and teaching people to say, “Hey, Brah.”

On the other hand, there’s Tuddie Purdy, who runs Purdy’s Natural Macadamia Nut Farm in central Molokai.

“I’m not anti-American, but they stole this land,” Purdy said when I stopped in for a visit. “They took our Queen (Liliuokalani) away in handcuffs.”

Putting history aside for a moment, Purdy tells me Molokai is better protected from over-tourism than other Hawaiian islands because it’s people are more vigilant.

“Too many people want to come and buy two or three houses or build a mansion on the hill,” he said. “And then the locals get priced out.”

Over on Lana’i, almost everyone I spoke with on was thrilled with how the island is changing.

“Ellison’s deal to buy the island from David Murdock (the previous majority owner) closed on a Wednesday,” said Mike Carroll of the Mike Carroll Gallery in Lana’i City. “Larry announced his plan to fix up the community pool on Friday of that week. What he’s done with Hotel Lana’i (the small hotel in town Ellison owns) and with the swimming pool and the theater and other projects is amazing.”

“You have your critics; every community does,” said Jenna Majkus, who runs The Local Gentry shop in Lana’i City. “Murdock was a cash-poor billionaire. But Larry is spending money. I’m the mother of an 11-year-old girl and he’s put a lot of money into kids’ programs. There are now feeder sports for the high school, which gives my daughter something to do. We never had that before.”

“It’s odd to work for a company where it’s not all about cutting costs,” said Harrilynn Kameenui, Senior VP Administration for Pulama Lana’i. “When we get change orders for work we’re doing, it’s to make things better.”

Kameenui said she’s all in favor of visitation to her island. To a point.

“We don’t want another O’ahu. We want to keep things pristine, and we want people to come and be a part of what we’re doing here.”

Of course, not everyone is enamored with the shiny, new Lana’i.

One store owner told me Ellison has done a nice job fixing things up, but that his grocery store, Richard’s, is “way too expensive.”

“Ellison’s just doing this stuff to impress his friends” another long-time Lana’i resident said.

“All I can tell you is that he’s committed to helping the island become something that can become self sustaining,” Kurt Matsumoto, the COO of Pulama Lana’i, said in a telephone interview. “Larry’s a passionate person, and this isn’t a flash-in-the-pan type of interest. There’s truly a commitment to quality, which is why we have all these divisions with no income at all.

“We’re not selling tours where people go plant a tree on the mountain and pay $250 for the privilege. He’s doing the work because it’s the right thing to do.”

A young tour guide who showed me around Lana’i one morning said not everyone seems able to quite grasp what’s happening on the island.

“It’s maybe not as much as Molokai, but I think there’s still some distrust,” she said. “I’d say people are cautiously optimistic.”

SOME HIGHLIGHTS FROM EACH ISLAND

I didn’t include this in my L.A. Times story, but I thought I’d add some thoughts about what I love about each island.

LANA’I

 

I love the chill atmosphere here. Yes, the Four Seasons Resort at Manele Bay is a stunner, and Manele Bay sports one of the best beaches in Hawaii. But the things I enjoy most are the shoreline hikes, especially to Puu  Pehe (Sweetheart Rock in English). A morning sunrise there is spectacular. I also love little Lana’i City. The aforementioned Carroll gallery is spectacular, but I also love The Local Gentry and the super-casual Hula Hut. I haven’t done it in 50 years, but the drive over the top of Munro Trail is spectacular if you have a Four-Wheel Drive vehicle and good padding for your backside. The Four Seasons Resort also can take you on hikes to see ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs, ride an ATV in the forest, or sail on their catamaran, an activity I highly recommend. I’ve had lunch at Sensei Lana’i and strolled the grounds, but haven’t stayed the night. The spa and yoga programs look amazing, and you can go for a horseback ride. But the resort is beyond pricey. It’s small, but the Hotel Lana’i is a charming property with lovely rooms. They’ve changed the restaurant so I can’t vouch for the current menu. But it was quite good in the past. The golf course at Manele Bay is sensational, with several holes perched on deep brown/black cliffs high above the deep blue, surging Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, you have to be a member or a Four Seasons guest to play. I also love the free golf course in Lana’i City that was built for the island’s pineapple workers back in the day. It’s a fun layout and it’s kept in good condition. It’s also a great place to meet locals and “talk story.” Pele’s Other Garden has pretty good food, and there’s a nice patio at Coffee Works, the coffee shop in town. I always enjoy a lunch or breakfast at Blue Ginger Cafe in Lana’i City, a super casual spot where you can mix with locals and enjoy eggs with Portuguese sausage, or Japanese dishes like saimin. Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) is an unusual, eerie set of rock formations about 45 minutes from Lana’i City that’s worth a look. It’s accessible only by a Four-Wheel Drive vehicle or mountain bike, or on foot. This is a sacred site, so please do NOT stack rocks or move anything. If you’re a fan of felines, you can volunteer to help out at the Lana’i Cat Sanctuary, where they look after feral or abandoned cats. I also love the Lana’i Cultural and Heritage Center, which tells great stories about the island’s colourful history.

 

MOLOKAI or MOLOKA’I (depends on who you ask)

 

I really love this place, which gives me a true sense of peace whenever I visit. My fave area is the east end, which gets more rain than the west and has a lovely, tropical feel. One of the main roads on the island is the two-lane Highway 450 from the main city of Kaunakakai to the Halawa Valley. It’s a pastoral delight that skirts east Molokai’s mountains. It starts off in a fairly arid part of the island but quickly moves into lands with small farms,  and a more tropical feel. Be sure to stop at Manae Goods and Grindz for a coffee or lunch. You’ll pass pretty churches on the way, including one built by the famous Father Damien, the Belgian priest who came here to look after victims of Hansen’s disease (formerly called leprosy) on the remote Kalauapapa peninsula. You’ll pass a couple of nice beaches as you go further east, and the road often rests a few feet from the ocean. If you pass 10 cars in the last 20 minutes I’d call it a traffic jam, so it’s very much unlike Maui’s road to Hana. You’ll gradually rise up into drier, grazing country, but then quickly drop down into the lush Halawa Valley. Look for pretty waterfalls at the far end of the valley, and enjoy the beach (but be careful of currents). There’s another beautiful church nestled in the valley. You’ll also find a small farm and a wonderful Molokai experience called the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike, run by Hawai’i native Greg Solatorio, who takes guests on guided walks and explains Molokai culture. It’s hands-down one of the best things to do on the island. Right now the U.S. parks service is not allowing tours of Kalaupapa, which is  a shame as it’s a powerful experience. Still, you can see the peninsula far below your feet from the Kalaupapa Lookout, Check out the nearby Molokai Museum and Cultural Centre for great history displays. It’s quite charming. The only golf course on the island is Ironwood Hills, which is not quite Manele Bay but has its charms. And it’s only $20 to $36 USD to play nine holes, according to hawaiigolf.com One of the top attractions in Kaunakakai is lining up at Kanemitsu Bakery for hot bread late at night. Some slather theirs with butter; others add tropical or berry jams. Definitely something to try. Paddlers Restaurant and Bar has pretty good food and often features wonderful, live entertainment. Closer to the airport, Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm is a great thing to try on a hot, sunny day. Owner Tuddie Purdy is a hoot, as well. Further west is the old Kaluakoi resort. It’s now shuttered as a golf resort, but I know people who still rent condos here and swear by it. It can be rough in winter, but Papohaku Beach is several miles long and seldom has more than a handful of people on it. Closer to the resort, Kepuhi is a small, pretty beach. There are several nice beaches to the north that you can reach via a walking trail. Again, if there are more than two or three people on the sand it would be considered a crowded day. Looking to give back? Try lending a hand clearing invasive species with the folks from the Molokai Land Trust. It’s a very rewarding experience. I’ve stayed at the Wavecrest Condos in east Molokai and loved it. They often have one-bedroom units for less than $150 US a night. I also really like Hotel Molokai, which doesn’t have much of a beach but has a small pool, lovely grounds and a very nice waterfront restaurant called Hiro’s Ohana Grill. I went online and found rooms in November from around $25o USD.

Comments: Drop a line in the comments section. I do my best, but mistakes sometimes occur. This was not intended to be a fulsome description of each island, but a story about tourism.

Further information: gohawaii.com