It’s been a tough ride for Hawaii, and for Maui. Visitor numbers are down sharply since the August 8 fires that destroyed most of the Maui town of Lahaina.
But the island is open, and they’re welcoming visitors with open arms. I’ve been compiling lists of some of my favorite things to see and do, and here are 20 more Maui tips from someone who’s been nearly three dozen times.
Please visit responsibly. Do NOT try to visit Lahaina and do NOT take photos of damaged areas. Please do not pry into people’s personal lives.
LA PEROUSE BAY AND SOUTH OF MAKENA
The road gets quite narrow as you drive south along the coast past Makena Beach. There’s tremendous snorkeling at the Ahihi-Kinau Marine Preserve and again at La Perouse Bay. Parking can be tough to find along the road but there’s a usually some at La Perouse Bay, which is the end of the road. The lava fields in this part of South Maui are quite something, as well.
WAILEA BEACH RESORT
Wailea Beach Resort was the first resort built in the now-posh Wailea region of south Maui. Flanked by two fine beaches, Ulua and Wailea, the 22-acre grounds are expansive and beautifully manicured. We had a gorgeous, ground-floor room in Hale 2, with a large patio overlooking the ocean and great views of West Maui, Lana’i and the island of Kahoolawe. There are two adult pools, one a private sanctuary called Olakino that has to be reserved in advance, and a couple of great infinity pools. There’s also a kid’s water play area with sprinklers and small slides, plus two long, fast water slides for adults. (The enclosed one is particularly swift, and tons of fun. Humble Market Kitchin By Roy Yamaguchi puts on a wonderful breakfast buffet, while KAPA Bar and Grill serves up a fine ahi poke bowl and tender Korean chicken bites.
MAUI HANDS GALLERIES
The Lahaina store was lost in the August 8 fires, but Maui Hands still has three galleries on the island that feature wonderful works by island artists. The Makawao store features colorful, paintings, glass blown into the shape of an octopus or a gecko, lovely pottery, and gorgeous, polished wooden boxes. There’s also plenty of locally-made jewelry.
LEILANI’S KAANAPALI
This is a great waterfront spot at Whalers Village Shopping Centre in Ka’anapali. Leilani’s on the Beach is famous for their Hula Pie, a sizable dessert that macadamia nut ice cream, chocolate fudge and whipped cream. Dinner items include garlic shrimp pasta, grilled filet mignon and fresh, parmesan crusted fish. They also have specials, such as Taco Tuesday and Burger and a Beer Wednesday. Look for Grammy Award-winning Slack Key guitar player George Kahumoku Jr. in concert on Saturday nights in November and December.
SUSHI IN KIHEI
1054 Togoshi Sushi is a lovely, funky, family run place in a secluded strip mall in Kihei. The decor features a corner filled with stuffed Snoopy dogs, and there’s tons of kitschy beach signs on the wall. We especially enjoyed the spicy ahi tuna roll. Service can be a bit slow if they’re busy, but it’s worth it. And it’s not expensive.
HO’OKIPA BEACH PARK
Located just a few minutes from Paia, this is a glorious spot to watch surfers, wake boarders and kite surfers ride towering waves. There’s a nice beach but watch for waves and currents. The best views are from Ho’okipa Lookout at the south end of the beach.
FREE SHOWS AT SHOPS OF WAILEA
There’s tons of free workshops and free entertainment at the Shops at Wailea outdoor mall. There’s a terrific Polynesian show every Tuesday evening, with both kids and adults showing off dances from different island groups. They’also have a free, live music show every Wednesday and “Jazz at the Shops” on the first Saturday of the month, as well as more live music on the last Friday of every month. During the day they offer free ukelele lessons, lei making wood carving lessons, and more. Shops and restaurants include Blue Ginger (lovely women’s clothing), Gucci, Honolua Surf Company, Tommy Bahama, Ruth’s Chris and Lappert’s Ice Cream.
KULA BOTANICAL GARDEN
Located at 3,600 feet, on the slopes of Haleakala Crater, Kula Botanical Garden is a lovely, small garden that’s easy to navigate. Look for everything from orchids to giant protea and brilliant red bottle brush plants. There’s also a small aviary with several types of birds. When I visited last week it was a wonderful 77 degrees F at mid-day; 11 degrees cooler than Wailea.
DOWNTOWN WAILUKU
Downtown Wailuku is super-casual, old school Maui. It’s an area rarely frequented by tourists, but that’s why I like it. Wailuku Coffee Company is great for a morning pick-me-up, while 808 on Main serves up good sandwiches. Check out the charming Iao Theatre for live performances. The theatre will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2028. I quite like the Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono, which has a charming garden and serves up a nice breakfast.
VOLUNTEERING
The Maui Food Bank welcomes volunteers at a well-run food distribution center located in Kahului. The thanks you’ll get from people impacted by the fires makes it well worth your time. Kipuka Ololwalu is doing great work to get rid of invasive species south of Lahaina. The state of Hawaii’s Malama Hawai’i program offers visitors discounted hotel rates in exchange for volunteer work, which might include a morning beach clean-up effort.
SNORKEL MOLIKINI
It’s not cheap (some companies charge $250 USD for three hours), but many people swear that a trip to this crescent-shaped crater off the coast of south Maui it’s the best snorkeling they’ve done in the area.
TIN ROOF RESTAURANT
Celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon operates the casual Tin Roof Maui in Kahului, just a few blocks from the Maui airport. The pork belly is good. The chicken mochiko is outstanding. Portions are enormous, and super filling as per Hawaiian custom. Right now it’s only take-out.
OUTRIGGER CANOE RIDE SOUTH MAUI
The folks at Wailea Beach Resort offer a great, one-hour educational ride in a Hawaiian-style outrigger canoe. Our guide, Terrence Tilbrook from Hawai’i Ocean Sports, told us it’s believed people came here in canoes from the distant Marquesas Islands in the 5th century and then from Tahiti in the 10th century, which means Hawai’i had a long, long history and time-honoured traditions before Europeans came. Tilbrook said ancient navigators could read the stars and the waves and dip their hands into the water to feel if it was warming as they went along, an indication of shallow water and perhaps an island nearby. They also could follow sea birds, some of which would fly several hundred miles a day to feed in the open ocean and return to land at night. Out on the water, he told us how turtles can hold their breath for a couple of hours. We spotted a couple from a distance. As we cruised over a shallow reef, I also spotted a lovely, colourful humuhumunukunukuapua’a (ree triggerfish) in the shallow waters. It’s a beautiful ride on deep blue water. The guides do most of the work but you’ll still burn off a little of your breakfast. Rides start around $155 USD for adults. But it’s free for guests at Wailea Beach Resort.
PUKALANI GOLF
Pukalani Country Club is a fun course in upcountry Maui that’s popular with locals and in-the-know visitors. The course is a manageable 6,962 yards long from the championship tees, plays to a par 72, and features 19 greens in its 18-hole layout. On the third hole, golfers can try a tough iron shot across a ravine and into the wind for one green, or a challenging chip shot straight down to a well-trapped green several hundred feet below. When I last checked, they had a visitor’s bundle that included green fees, a cart and TaylorMade clubs for just $99 USD. They also had a “Terrific Thursday” promotion with $49 green fees.
BIKE DOWN THE CRATER
Cycling down Haleakala Crater is an amazing experience that takes you from 10,032 feet of elevation to sea level in a couple hours. Warning: it can be mighty cold at the summit, but very warm at sea level, so dress accordingly. Several companies offer this service.
FOUR SEASONS WAILEA
The Four Seasons Maui Resort at Wailea is a dreamy, luxury resort in south Maui, famous as the location for the filming of the first season of White Lotus. Try a couples massage overlooking the beach, or a fine meal at Spago, a California/Hawaii fusion restaurant by celebrated chef Wolfgang Puck. They can also set up a custom, gourmet dinner in a private, ocean-view setting. The hotel’s Four Seasons Maui Strong package gives up to $200 of your room chargec to the Hawai’i Community Foundation’s Maui Strong Fund.
WAI’ANAPAPA STATE PARK
One of the most striking areas of Maui, Wai’anapanapa State Park features brilliant blue water smacking up against craggy, black lava rock and black sand beaches. There are relatively easy hikes and stunning ocean views, as well as a few small caves to explore. The park is a short drive north of Hana.
JOEY’S NAPILI
I’ve mentioned the Ka’anapali branch in the past. We ate at his original spot at the Napili Plaza recently and enjoyed. The pork lumpia (like a spring roll) are excellent, and we quite enjoyed the red curry with local fish and the Kauai garlic shrimp, featured on the TV show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.
WAILEA BEACH RESORT LUAU
The expansive and beautiful Wailea Beach Resort in South Maui does a nice job with its waterfront luau, which features terrific live music and performances/dances that reflect Hawai’i and a variety of South Pacific cultures. The drinks are fine, and the food is quite good for a luau. We enjoyed roast pig, mahi mahi, Hawaiian-style “huli huli” bbq chicken, nice salads, and a variety of tasty desserts.
CHARLES LINDBERGH BURIAL SITE
Perhaps the most famous aviator of all time is buried in a small, unpretentious graveyard on south Maui, behind the pretty Palapala Ho’Omau Congregational Church in Kipahulu. Even if you’re not a big fan, it’s a lovely site that offers glorious views of the Pacific Ocean and, on a clear day, Hawai’i island. Kipahulu is roughly 35 minutes southwest of Hana if you don’t stop. But you’d be missing a lot along the way if you don’t stop, including Hamoa Beach, Wailua Falls and the beautiful freshwater pools and waterfalls of the not-so-romantically named O’heo Gulch.
GARDEN OF EDEN ARBORETUM
The Garden of Eden is a gorgeous spot just north of Kaumahina Wayside State Park on the road to (or from) Hana. Look for massive tropical flowers and shrubs and tremendous coastal views, including a scene used in the opening of the first Jurassic Park movie. The arboretum encompasses 26 acres and includes lovely nature trails and picnic areas. Go early or later in the day to avoid crowds.
HALI’IMAILE GENERAL STORE
This has long been regarded as one of Maui’s top restaurants. Chef Bev Gannon sold Hali’imaile General Store a few years ago, but the emphasis is still on locally sourced produce, seafood, meats and products. Look for dishes such as Gannon’s special crab pizza, pork belly bao buns and a blackened, seared ahi noodle bowl. The restaurant is only 15-20 minutes from Kahului and the Maui airport.
GAZEBO NAPILI
The Gazebo is a legendary spot for breakfast in West Maui, at the Napili Shores condo resort at lovely Napili Beach. They’re particularly known for their macadamia nut pancakes. Warning: it can get crowded so I’d arrive a good 20 to 30 minutes prior to opening and join the line up. Afterwards, walk off your meal with a stroll down to the end of the beach and back.