Elise Parker from Walk Into Luxury tours is guiding my wife and I along the coast of Western Australia near Injidup Beach. The ocean is an achingly bright shade of blue the Benjamin Moore people haven’t created yet, and is crashing against spiky, orange-brown rocks on a pale golden beach.
As we walk, she points out native plants that can be quite useful if one knows the secrets. The nectar from a Melaleuca can be licked, or collected and made into a sweet drink. Some grasses that don’t look like much can be eaten raw, or roasted.
Being more of an upscale walking tour and not a “here’s how to survive in the Australian bush tour,” Parker finds a bench where we can sit and share some hot tea and pastries she picked up that morning at a bakery in nearby Busselton.
Near the end of our walk, we take a gander at the Natural Spa, a depression in the coastal rocks that allows bathers to sit and soak as waves create small waterfalls that drop onto them from a few feet above, thus offering a free head and neck massage.
Elise Parker of Walk Into Luxury Tours shows off Injidup Beach in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Precisely half-an-hour later we’re sitting on the sunny patio at a local winery called Swings and Roundabouts in Yallingup, ordering up terrific pizza from their wood-fired oven and fresh, local fish to go with our Sangiovese Rose.
The Margaret River region of Western Australia mixes stunning beaches and natural scenery with some of the world’s best wine and food. It’s like a marriage of the Monterey Peninsula and the Napa Valley, or maybe the beautiful prom queen with the handsome high school football team quarterback. It’s just not fair.
Not only that, but it’s also not remotely crowded. Oh, sure, you’ll find plenty of cars in the parking lot at Swings and Roundabouts, and probably at Injidup Beach on a warm, sunny day. But you can easily find yourself alone on a three-mile-long, gorgeous stretch of sand fronted by ocean water in mesmerizing bands of aquamarine and royal blue.
If the Margaret River region was 250 km’s from Sydney instead of Perth it would be world-famous, and packed to the gills with visitors from around the world with Instagram accounts at the ready. But Perth is at the far west end of Australia, and most tourists don’t make it pass Melbourne or Uluru. Heck, most Australians I’ve met have never been to Margaret River.
Not only will visitors find great food and wine and beaches, but the region also has fun, walkable towns, thick forests for hiking or biking, bounding kangaroos, and wonderful, educational aboriginal experiences.
Here are some things to see and do in the Margaret River Region of Western Australia
DOING
A Fat Tire Bike Adventure (And A Tremendous Beach)
Cam O’Beirne from Margaret River Adventure Co. shows off Boranup Beach in Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This was a tremendous experience and a highlight of my visit. Cam O’Beirne from the Margaret River Adventure Co. showed us off towering, 80-meter tall Kauri trees in the Boranup Karri Forest. Some of them are 500 years old.
We spotted a young emu in the bush, as well as several species of birds.
Karri trees grow so straight that many were used to help build the London Underground and some of the city’s wooden streets.
The fat tires on the bikes are for the sandy soil. It was a bit challenging uphill, but the climbs were gentle and a casual biking fan like me had no trouble. The downhills were, of course, even more fun, as I zipped past thick canopies of trees and dappled sunshine on a lovely spring day Down Under.
Cam’s company also does day-long tours that include interacting with sting rays, hiking, snorkeling and Margaret River wine-tasting.
As an extra treat, Cam took my wife and I through a rugged, thick forest with deep sandy roads to a small hill overlooking beautiful Boranup Beach, where you’ll find brilliant blue-green water dotted with small islands, and a white-sand beach backed by rocky bluffs. He explained that it’s the deposits of offshore limestone that help give the water its distinctive aquamarine colour. Whatever the reason, it’s truly mesmerizing. We walked along the bluff for 20 minutes and didn’t see a soul on a stretch of sand that marched along for miles.
An Early Evening Visit With Kangaroos
Kangaroos in Western Australia. Tourism Western Australia Photo
South West Eco Discoveries offers excellent night walks through the a 100-acre, private forest called the Yelverton Brook Conservation Sanctuary. We started near dusk and watched as bandicoots and other small animals came out for their night activities. They have a small group of orphaned kangaroos on site, one named Van Gogh as he has lost an ear. You’ll probably get to feed and pet them; a highlight for most any visitor to Australia.
They’re very gentle animals if you approach them the right way, and their fur is softer than a box of Charmin. My guides for the night, brothers Mick and Ryan White, also pointed out various types of trees, including one called a Snottygobble and another a Black Butt tree, because only the base gets charred by a fire.
As night descends they point out constellations new to a northern hemisphere resident, along with more spinning satellites than I would’ve expected.
“We love it our here,” Mick tells me. “People in big cities lose their sense of wonder, that connection with nature. One little boy from Singapore came on our hike and saw all the stars. He pointed to the sky and said, ‘What are those?’”
Busselton Jetty
One fun activity (it was a bit breezy and cool when we were there) is a swim off the Busselton Jetty, where you don a mask and snorkel and fins and check out lovely reef formations and colourful fish. You can walk to the of the jetty (it’s a full 1.8 km’s), or take a small train out to the end and back. If you don’t want to get wet, book a ticket for the Underwater Observatory at the end of the jetty, which has windows that allow you look out at the sea life below the water.
Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse
A tour guide at the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse in Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
We had a wonderful tour of the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, learning about the lonely life of lighthouse keepers and their families. “Back in the day it was a four or five-hour walk to town for food,” our guide said. “They had no electricity, and no refrigerators.” Keepers were given stand-up desks so they wouldn’t fall asleep on the job. They also had to haul kerosene up to the top of the lighthouse to keep the light going, which was dangerous work. We were told that different lighthouses up and down the coast had different flashing sequences, so sailors could tell where they were. It was wild and windy when we visited, and the door to the lighthouse thrummed and whistled as we toured about. It actually added to the experience.
Walk Into Luxury Hiking Trips
Walk Into Luxury offers multiple day, guided trips in various parts of Australia, including the Margaret River. You’ll stay in excellent hotels or resorts, and get wonderful food along the way. Even better, the guides are knowledgeable and fun. “People love our tour,” our guide, Elise Parker, told us. “We set everything up along the way, so they don’t have to think, just enjoy. By end of the walk, we’re all good friends.”
A Wonderful Indigenous Experience
On a previous visit to the Margaret River region I had a wonderful visit to the Ngilgi Caves, a set of deep limestone caves, and a fascinating aboriginal tour and music experience with Josh Whiteland from Koomal Dreaming.
Great Beaches Galore
Redgate Beach in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Redgate Beach is a lovely area for exploring tidal pools and shallow waters protected by red rocks.
Just a few minutes from Dunsborough, Meelup Beach is a fine spot for relaxing and swimming.
Gracetown is a huggable little coastal town with several nice beaches and hiking areas.
WINE TASTING
The restaurant at Leeuwin Estate in the Margaret River Region. Tourism Western Australia Photo
Leeuwin Estate
Our wine guide at Leeuwin Estate, Cameron Haskell, was one of the best we’ve had anywhere; knowledgeable and engaging, with zero pretense (not that any Aussie would stand for it). The grounds are lovely, and they often have live concerts (check). There’s also a wonderful art gallery, where some of the pieces have been commissioned. I found the wines to be a great blend of old world depth and new world fruitiness, a characteristic that I think is notable for the region as a whole. Cam told me it’s the soil and the climate, with cool ocean water nearby keeping the Australian heat in check. For me it’s the perfect balance. The Chardonnay is lovely, but I really fell for the stylish Cabernet Sauvignon. “It’s got body, but it won’t stick to your teeth until 2 p.m. tomorrow,” Cam tells us with a smile. The Margaret River region is a great place to grow wine, but the proximity to the ocean means it’s tough to get surfing enthusiasts to come into work at the winery, Cam told us with a smile. There’s a great story surrounding the winery in which the owner, Denis Horgan, was sitting at his desk one day around 1969 when the phone rang. “Hi, it’s Robert Mondavi, I’d like to talk to you about your land.” Horgan put his hand over the phone and whispered to his secretary, “Can you find out who this Mondavi guy is?” It turns out Mondavi had made the trek to the region and was convinced it would be great for making wine. Pretty soon, Horgan was in the grape business. In addition to fabulous wine, the on-site restaurant is first rate. We had tiny prawns on a bed of lettuce surrounded by small rocks, as well as chopped asparagus. The black Angus sirloin came with peas, leeks and black garlic and was to die for, as were the Western Australia scallops and local, line-caught fish. We had a lovely blueberry dessert with white chocolate, and also sampled a Cambray reserve cheddar with cornbread and spiced raisins, a dish that nicely mixes up the savoury and sweet in a surprising fashion. A nice balance, I thought to myself. Just like the Margaret River region itself.
Fraser Gallop
Fraser Gallop winery in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTOFraser Gallop Estate is a small, intimate place near Wilyabrup that makes lovely Chardonnay and beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon. The estate Chardonnay is crisp and clean, more France than oaky California in style. Wine guides are friendly and knowledgeable. One winery worker told me that locals gasped a few years ago when they introduced a $10 AUD tasting fee (about $8 CAD and $6.50 USD). Many California wineries charge $40 USD or more to taste a bit of the product. The fee is waived if you buy something.
Other Great Options
Windows Estate winery, Margaret River, Western Australia. Tourism Australia Photo.
Vasse Felix was the first winery in the Margaret River region, and it remains one of the best. Amazing sparkling wine and deep, flavourful reds.
Windows Estate serves up lovely Semillon and has an amazing charcuterie tray.
DINING
Dunsborough
Lady Lola Deli Bar Bistro is a wonderful restaurant in Dunsborough. We enjoyed a lovely plate of kingfish crudo with peppers and fennel, and a terrific Shark Bay prawn risotto. The charcuterie Bucatini Amatriciana features slow-roasted guanciale and uber-rich, thick, tomato sauce. Hands down one of the pasta dishes I’ve ever had. When we visited our server was a young woman from Quebec.
Busselton
Shelter Brewing Co. is a fine spot for a meal in Busselton, near the entrance to the Jetty. We enjoyed a very good pizza with prosciutto, garlic, pancetta and fior de latte.
Gnarabup
White Elephant Cafe. Photo by Elements Margaret River
White Elephant Beach Café in Gnarabup is the epitome of relaxed, Margaret River coastal culture; an outdoors dining spot overlooking a fine beach. Look for surfers and wanna-be surfers, as well as kayakers and hikers out for a morning flat white and maybe a slice of delicious avocado toast. Grab a spot overlooking the water and enjoy some great food and an amazing beach view.
Yallingup
Swings and Roundabouts winery is a fun, casual, sprawling place that’s particularly popular with families and young people. The pizza is very good, as is the seafood. They make a variety of wines, including roses, whites and reds. It’s a great family spot that has an ice cream stand and a playground for kids. In addition to the winery in Yallingup, they have a Cellar Door and Restaurant in Margaret River town.
STAYING
Sunset over a small lake at Olio Bello glamping in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Located in the small town of Dunsborough, Southcamp offers hotel rooms and cabins in a lively spot that also has a popular brewery, grocery store and café with excellent coffee. We had a modern, one-bedroom hotel unit (more like a condo) with a washer-dryer, refrigerator, stove, a comfy sofa, a dining table, a big-screen TV and a large, covered porch with a barbeque. The brewery was a hive of activity on a Friday night but quieted down by 10:30 p.m. There’s a large, grassy area for kids to play while their parents sip a frosty beverage.
Olio Bello is a cool glamping spot on a small pond near the pretty, seaside village of Gracetown. The walls were canvas, but it felt more like a luxury hotel room than a camping spot. We had a fridge and kettle, a nice indoor shower, modern furnishings and tons of space. They make their own wines and olive oil on site. It’s a great spot to enjoy star gazing or check out the kangaroos, which are best spotted around dusk and early in the morning.
Smiths Beach Resort is on a fabulous beach and offers bright, luxurious, modern rooms. I had a massive one-bedroom unit with a huge terrace when I visited. The restaurant is excellent, and there’s also a pool.
SHOPPING
Fine shopping abounds in Margaret River, Western Australia. JIM BYERS PHOTO
Margaret River town is a bustling spot with a variety of fun shops selling everything from books to surf gear. Marine and Co. offers up lovely clothing, while Country Focus features everything from furniture to fashion and skincare products.
One great way to learn about the town and sample local fare is on a Walk Talk Taste tour. Co-owner Kellie Tannock took us to the Margaret River Distilling Company for a “giniversity” course that teaches visitors about gin, and then gobbled down arancini and marvelous pasta with Calabrian salami, chili and parmesan and red onion at La Scarpetta, an Italian restaurant in a ramshackle, old house. We also nipped into a sensational, restaurant called Tuck Shop, where we sampled terrific local fish with lime juice, yuzu and local plants as seasoning.
More information:
https://www.margaretriver.com/
https://www.westernaustralia.com/en/home
https://www.australia.com/en-ca
