The Victoria Day weekend is behind us, which means it’s practically summer. Which makes it a great time to get out and explore great areas of Canada. Here are a few of my faves from my travels over the past few years.
SOUTHWEST ONTARIO
Petting a Spirit Horse at TJ Stables in Chatham, Ontario. JIM BYERS PHOTO
After spending most of my spare time in Ontario in regions north of Toronto, I started visiting this part of the province on a regular basis about 10 years ago. Amherstburg is a growingly sophisticated town with great shopping and food. Former Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment chief Richard Peddie owns a couple of lovely stores, including River Bookshop and White Woods Home. He’s hoping to open a boutique hotel with river views. A few minutes outside of town, Dancing Swallows is a fine winery with lovely workers and a pretty setting that features a big red barn and an ancient, giant maple tree. Pull up a Muskoka chair and sit a spell. DO NOT MISS the “Awaken Your Spirit” experience at TJ Stables, just a few minutes outside downtown Chatham. The program includes a talk about Metis history, an indigenous cleansing ceremony and a good amount of time with several dozen rare “spirit horses.” Kingsville is home to a beautiful chocolate shop called Dutch Boys. It’s also where you’ll find a crazy and highly entertaining retail operation called Colasanti’s Tropical Garden, the fine Grove Hotel and Pelee Island Winery, which has a great patio for summer. The Windsor area has rich Black history. On my latest visit to the area I was lucky enough to get a guided tour of the Amherstburg Freedom Museum, and to visit the Sandwich First Baptist Church. Be sure to check out the African Canadian Heritage Tour-Tourism Route. I recommend a trip to both of them. I also suggest stopping in at Chapter 2 Brew House and a bite to eat at Zule Eats, where you’ll find tasty, filling Ghanian pies. I love the area around Erieau and Erie Beach. The Sand Bar is a super casual, locals place in Erieau. Willow Barrel Retreat has a series of fine cottages and suites on the shores of Rondeau Bay, and mere steps from Lake Erie.
SASKATOON
Try a ride on the Prairie Lily tour boat in Saskatoon for great views. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This is one of the most underrated cities in Canada, with a huge variety of things to see and do. The Remai Modern is one of the country’s top museums and exhibits cutting-edge art in a gorgeous building along the S. Saskatchewan River. It’s also home to the largest number of Picasso linocuts in the world. You’ll find cool galleries and great coffee and food spots in the emerging Riversdale area of town. Wanuskewin Heritage Park, just outside Saskatoon, has moving tributes to First Nations people. The wonderful James Hotel offers rooms with lovely views of the S. Saskatchewan River. Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan performs fantastically inventive plays on the shores of the river. I saw Taming of the Shrew a few years ago and loved it. The Western Development Museum is a fine place to learn about the area’s history and a great spot for kids. Dakota Dunes is a challenging and beautiful golf course not far from Saskatoon. Shoppers will delight in the variety of goods available on Broadway; one of the city’s best shopping streets. Great cafes and bars, too. The folks at Canoeski can take you on a tranquil canoe ride on the S. Saskatchewan River.
YUKON
Yukon is home to magnficent lakes and vast mountain ranges. JIM BYERS PHOTO
In surprising Whitehorse, check out the fine walk along Miles Canyon and read about tough pioneer women and men at the MacBride Museum of Yukon History. One great story surrounds Lucille Hunter, who is said to have been one of the first Black women in the Yukon. She arrived from the US, 19 years of age and pregnant, yet still took the tough Stikine Trail to the Yukon with her husband. A couple hours west of Whitehorse is magnificent Kluane National Park, home to rugged mountains and stunning vistas. I also recommend a visit to the extensive sand dunes (yes, really) of the Carcross Desert, south of Whitehorse. Dawson City has a wild and colourful history, thanks in part to the “women of the evening” during the gold rush. You can learn about some of the madams’ stories on a fun walking tour of the town offered by Parks Canada. You can stay in a former brothel if you book a room at Bombay Peggy’s hotel. Don’t miss a chance to try the famous Sour Toe cocktail, a five-decade tradition at what’s now called the Sourdough Saloon, where they place an actual human toe in a shot glass of alcohol and get you to drink the liquid. If your lips touch the toe, you get a certificate and get yourself enrolled in the Sour Toe Club. The club now stands at more than 100,000 members, yours truly included (I’ve done it twice). The Jack London cabin is another great spot in Dawson, and I love taking a ride on the Klondike Spirit, the only operational paddlewheel ship in the Yukon. Roughly 90 minutes from Dawson City is Tombstone Territorial Park, one of the most rugged mountain formations in Canada.
HALIFAX
Downtown Dartmouth, just across the bay from Halifax, has a lively feel and great restaurants. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This is one of the great cities of Canada; a vibrant but super-friendly spot where people aren’t in a rush and where drivers stop to let crazed Torontonians jaywalk across a busy street at rush hour. You’ll also find a wonderful waterfront, terrific food and trendy neighbourhoods to explore. Across the bay in Dartmouth, The Canteen has brilliant white and yellow décor that’s as bright and shiny as a fresh Bluenose dime. Try the “crobster” roll, with lobster and crab on a toasted bun. In the trendy North End, Agricola Street Brasserie has exposed wood ceilings in what feels like an old warehouse. The Muir Hotel, part of the Marriott Autograph Collection, has stunning design that reflects the city’s maritime history, as well as top restaurants such as Drift, which offers modern takes on local classics, as well as BKS, a private spot for guests and Muir clients with curated cocktails and small, savoury plates. The Lower Deck is a famous waterfront spot for live music and rollicking good times. Halifax Public Gardens is one of the finest public spaces in the country, with pretty ponds, towering trees and luscious flower displays in season. It’s only an hour or so from Halifax to the Nova Scotia wine region near Wolfville. The province’s wines are vastly improved in the past few years and consistently win major awards. In better weather, locals head out to Lawrencetown Beach Provincial Park for great surfing and beach picnics. Another great activity is a Segway tour along the waterfront with Segway Nova Scotia. The Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 tells marvellous stories about how future Canadians arrived in the country under trying conditions. Oh, yeah, there’s also a pretty famous lighthouse down the road at a spot called Peggy’s Cove.
WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK, ALBERTA
Waterton Lakes National Park is an easy drive from Calgary. JIM BYERS PHOTO
This province is justifiably famous for its brilliant national parks, the best known being Banff and Jasper. They’re both awesome, but also can be packed with tourists. Less crowded but just as striking is Waterton Lakes National Park on the Alberta/Montana border, a few hours south of Calgary. You’ll find a regal, old-style hotel on a bluff (The Prince of Wales Hotel) and a fun little town with good, casual food, pretty parks and mountain sheep (or even moose) wandering the streets. The boat ride along Waterton Lake is a great way to enjoy the mountain scenery. A bit more taxing is the hike up the Bear’s Hump, a steep but manageable trail that rewards hikers with stunning views of the lake below and sky-high peaks. When I was there. I took a drive out to Cameron Lake and also rented a moped for a ride out to Red Rock Canyon, which is spectacular. You can drive here quickly from Calgary on Highway 2 in about 2.5 hours. I vastly prefer the quiet, beautiful Cowboy Trail, Highway 22, which traces the footsteps of the Rockies and takes you past small towns such as Longview as well as pretty ranches. Just outside of Calgary is Turner Valley, home to the wonderful Eau Claire Distillery and Chuckwagon Café, which serves legendary burgers.
OTHER GREAT OPTIONS
North Hatley is one of the prettiest villages in Canada. It’s a great gathering spot in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. JIM BYERS PHOTO
- I adore the Eastern Townships of Quebec; a pretty area with gentle hills and lovely villages and towns just an hour from Montreal. One of my fave towns is Sutton. I also love North Hatley.
- The Acadian Coast of New Brunswick. Great beaches and Acadian pride make this a truly special part of Canada
- Anywhere in Newfoundland. Seriously, anywhere. Okay, I’ll single out Twillingate, but only because you made me, and because there’s amazing hiking and, around this time of year, great icebergs to spot.
- The Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. An easy ferry ride from Vancouver, this is a lovely, quiet area with great hiking and water sports.
- Prince Edward Island. Here’s a story I wrote from my most recent trip, which was truly outstanding.
