I was sitting in my back yard in Toronto a little more than a year ago, enjoying a fine summer’s day while I wrote a travel story. Suddenly there was a message from my sister on Facebook messenger.
“Such a shame about Lahaina.”
Five words that stopped me in my tracks.
I hadn’t turned on the news that day and wasn’t aware of the terrible fires that had gutted most of historic Lahaina and killed more than 100 people. I quickly started reading about the devastation, my mind going continually more numb as the minutes advanced. The photos were heartbreaking. The stories and video from fleeing residents were terrifying.
It’s been nearly a year since the tragic Maui fires swept through most of a town I have strolled through probably 100 or more times in my life, often with my sister or my parents or other members of my family. I’ve been visiting Maui for more than 50 years, and it remains one of my most cherished destinations.
The good news is that the city is finally starting to be rebuilt after the Lahaina fires. Almost all the debris has been removed from the burn zone in Lahaina, and construction has begun on at least a couple of new houses. In the historic centre of town, the world’s second largest banyan tree is sprouting many new leaves following emergency, post-fire treatments. As a symbol of the city (to some), it’s very encouraging to see signs of life.
Restaurants have reopened on the fringes of Lahaina, including Mala Ocean Tavern, a beautiful spot on the water in north Lahaina, and the wonderful Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, which is on the main road into Lahaina from the south. The renowned Old Lahaina Luau began running shows again in April.
(Here are links to two stories I’ve posted in the last year on top things to see and do on Maui: https://jimbyerstravel.com/2023/09/11/west-maui-reopens-october-8-here-are-30-things-to-see-and-do/ and https://jimbyerstravel.com/2023/11/07/23-more-things-to-see-and-do-on-maui-great-time-to-visit-hawaii/)
Pretty much everything is wide open on Maui, except for most of Lahaina. But there are still problems to confront for Maui tourism and for the island’s future, and answers aren’t easy to come by.
VISITS DOWN BUT PRICES UP
Preliminary statistics from the Hawaiian government show visitation is down sharply. At the same time, hotel prices have jumped significantly.
Stats for the first half of this year show there were 1,132 million visitors to Maui. That’s down 23.85% from the first half of 2023 (before the fires, of course) and 25.6% below pre-Covid, 2019 levels.
For June of this year, Maui hotel occupancy was at 57.5%. That’s 9.2 percentage points lower than June of 2023, and 23.1 percentage points below 2019.
The Four Seasons Resort at Wailea, Maui, Hawaii.
The island of Kauai for June had an occupancy rate of 75.3%, while Hawai’I Island was at 67%. For O’ahu, occupancy for June was 85.2%. Which means Maui is faring considerably worse than its sister islands.
In June 2024, the demand for vacation rental properties on Maui was down 13.5% from June of last year and down a full 40.9% from June of 2019.
So, demand is down. But prices are high.
The Hawaii Tourism Authority says that, for the first half of the year, the average daily rate for a hotel in Hawaii was $370. That compares to $278 for New York City and $245 for Miami.
For June 2024, Maui County hotels reported an average daily rate of $563 per night. That’s actually down 9.7% versus 2023, but up 42.9% compared to 2019. An average rate of $563 a night is tough for most Americans. For Canadians, that works out to $780 CAD per night.
But rental units are considerably cheaper, and you can save money by cooking your own meals. HTA stats for June show the average rental unit on Maui was going for $380 per night. That’s up 63.8% from 2019, but almost $200 less per night than a hotel.
AIRLIFT NOT HELPING HOTEL NUMBERS
Tetsuji Yamazaki, GM of the Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa and head of the Ka’anapali Beach Resort Association, said business is decidedly slower this year. But a lot of that has to do with a lack of airlift.
“Direct flights to Maui are down about 17%” from last year, he said in an interview with Open Jaw.
The weak Japanese yen also has hurt the incoming market from Japan, much like the weak Canadian dollar hurts visitors from north of the border.
Tetsuji Yamazaki, GM of the Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa
“It used to be that we got a lot of Japanese visitors, while Hawaiians went to Las Vegas. Now I see people at the airport in Hawaii and they tell me they’re going to Japan.”
Prices are high, but there are valid reasons for that, said Yamazaki, who also is a member of the board of the Maui Hotel and Lodging Association.
“First, of course, I would say that the experience we have on Maui is priceless. I also would point out that, since COVID, the cost of nearly everything has gone up.”
Yamazaki said hotel prices are coming down, however, and that there is lots of promotion and discounting taking place for agents and would-be customers to check out.
“We have some limited time promotions at the Sheraton. Marriott Bonvoy members get emails about our specials of the week. You can also find deals at Costco.com or with Pleasant Holidays or Classic Vacations and other wholesalers.”
Business Insider says The Four Seasons in Wailea has removed all resort fees in order to encourage summer travellers and offers a complimentary kids’ program in addition to free poolside cabanas.
Many hotels in the state participate in the Malama Hawaii program, which allows visitors to get a free room night in exchange for a couple of hours of volunteer work. I took part in a beach clean-up on Maui a couple years ago, and also helped clear some invasive species from the beautiful Olowalu Valley near Lahaina.
Gregg Nelson, general manager at Napili Kai Beach Resort, which is several miles north of Ka’anapali, said the resort is consistently above the Maui occupancy averages. But they’re not raising rates for 2025, and they currently have an early bird special for next year that offers a fifth night free.
MIXED MESSAGING FOR VISITORS
Just after the fires, a noticeable number of Maui residents suggested that tourists should stay away. Actor Jason Momoa was one of those actively telling visitors to avoid the island.
But that was a year ago, and hoteliers say most Maui residents understand that respectful tourism is necessary to keep islanders employed.
“Though many residents of Maui are still dealing with the loss of property and loved ones, most recognize the need to increase tourism and are certainly welcoming guests back to West Maui,” said Napili Kai’s Nelson.
The Hawaii Tourism Authority has launched a campaign called “The People, The Place, The Hawaiian Islands,” which features lovely videos and helps customers decide what kind of traveller they are, such as culturally curious, or eco-conscious. They then can explore the main islands to see what kind of vacation they might want to try.
“The best way to support Maui’s recovery is for travelers to visit,” HTA says in the Maui section of its main website. “Maui’s economy depends on a robust visitor industry and there is still plenty to see and do that is away from the fire-effected areas of Lahaina Town. Maui is ready to welcome you, however, we urge visitors to be especially respectful and mindful…”
A couple walking on Napili Beach, Maui. The Napili Kai Beach Resort is in the background. JIM BYERS PHOTO
“Maui is a resilient community, and our aloha spirit radiates brighter than ever as we joyfully welcome travellers…,” said Angela Vento, General Manager of Marriott’s Wailea Beach Resort. “There has never been a more perfect time to immerse yourself in Maui’s rich and vibrant culture while championing the incredible local businesses that form the heart and soul of our island.”
Josh Hargrove, general manager at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Kaanapali, told Travel Age West that vacationing hotel guests have, in many ways, helped staff members simply by returning to the property.
“Come have an amazing time on Maui; celebrate your life occasion, have a blast,” he said. “While you’re here, you’ll help the community, and then when you go back, and you tell your friends about the great time you had, you’ll also be helping the community. All we need you to do is just come and have a wonderful time with us.”
“It’s healing, and our visitors are part of that process,” Hargrove explained. “That’s part of what is helping everyone get through this. It’s that normalcy, it’s that stability, it’s relationships. All of that is healing.”
Beyond the immediate issue of tourism is the issue of long-term rebuilding for Lahaina.
FROM DEEP GREEN TO BROWN: LAHAINA’S TRANSFORMATION
Two hundred years ago, Lahaina was a lush, green outpost watered by heavy rains that streamed down from the deep green West Maui Mountains. But at least one stream was diverted for a canal so visiting sailors could get fresh water, and other streams were altered to provide water for the sugar cane industry.
At one time, Lahaina had a small island called Moku’ula, which was home to Hawaiian royalty and was surrounded by a massive pond. But water diversion caused the area to become super dry over the years, and the fires last August spread with amazing rapidity.
Many Hawaiians would, understandably, like to see the wetlands restored. It’s a wonderful concept that would honour local Hawaiians, who basically had their land stolen by white settlers.
The New York Times reports that Hawaii Governor Josh Green has said that officials “plan to announce in the coming days that the state and county are ready to approve plans to make the Moku’ula property available for restoration.”
That would be a tremendous addition/restoration for the town, and would also honour the Hawaiian people.
There’s also the rebuilding of a town whose appeal was in large part based on its ramshackle, old-time look and feel. Surely any new buildings will have to be built to withstand searing fires, but will owners try to rebuild their shops and restaurants to look like they did on Aug. 7 of last year? Will they sell off to big developers keen on building fancy hotels? And what about the businesses that were built out onto small beaches or out over the water? That’s not a good environmental policy, but it was part of the towns’ charm. Do you let the owners rebuild?
Front Street in Lahaina, Maui before the fires. Hawaii Tourism Authority Photo
Kimberly Flook, deputy executive director of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, a nonprofit aimed at preserving and protecting Lahaina’s history and cultural heritage, told NBC News earlier this year that many of the town’s historic structures used local stone and other materials that survived the fire. She thinks a lot of them can be rebuilt, although at what cost nobody can say just yet.
“It’s important to really bring what we call the ‘host culture,’ the Hawaiian culture to the forefront. Now more than ever,” she said.
In a story posted at Forbes.com in January of this year, Senator Angus McKelvey of West Maui said “it’s going to take like 10 or 20 years with the way things are going for Lahaina to come back online.”
That may or may not be the case, but Tetsuji said he’s been told that 85% of the debris from the fire has been picked up and that a couple houses are being rebuilt. Recent footage showing people putting up the frame of a new home served as a powerful image of resiliency and rebirth for the community.
“It’s really a sign of hope,” said Yamazaki, a former Lahaina resident.
A SYMBOL OF HOPE – BUT ALSO OF SADNESS
Another symbol of hope, to some at least, is Maui’s famous banyan tree, which was planted in 1873 and became the second largest in the world. It’s been the main gathering place in town for decades, a shady spot to sit and chat or let kids play and swing on vines, or weekly art shows.
Soon after the fires, experts raced to the scene to douse the tree with water, aerate the soil and add precious nutrients to help the roots recover from the shock. The process has seemingly worked, as there are many new leaves and almost daily updates on the rebirth of the tree.
But, like Hawaii’s history, the banyan tree’s image is not so simple. While some see it as a symbol of Lahaina, others view it as a symbol of colonialism. The tree was donated to the town by the son of missionaries who helped overthrow the kingdom of Hawaii, which allowed the U.S. to annex Hawaii and later make it a U.S. state.
Likewise, not everyone thinks mass tourism is the best way for Maui to survive. It’s by far the biggest part of the island’s economy today, but there have been many calls for Maui to diversify and reduce its reliance on airplanes full of visitors from far away.
My Dad and I under the Banyan Tree in Lahaina, Maui in better days.
“High reliance on tourism has exacerbated the island’s vulnerability to climate change,” the Environmental and Energy Study Institute said in a paper published earlier this year. “Maui’s economy is closely tied to natural assets – natural features, landscapes and coastal infrastructure – that are particularly vulnerable to sea level rise, warming oceans, storm surge, flooding, and extreme weather events. When these assets suffer climate-induced destruction, the resulting economic losses cut much deeper than in regions with more diversified, less tourist-centric economies.”
Hawaii tourism and government officials say that’s all well and good, and that they’re working to broaden the economy. But that won’t happen overnight. In the meantime, boosting tourism is the way to put food on the table of Maui residents.
TOURISM AND ECONOMIC DIVERSITY
In an interview with civilbeat.org, Rep. Elle Cochran, who represents part of Maui in the state of Hawaii’s House of Representatives, said it’s people who created the community and culture of Lahaina. If they don’t return, the harm will be irreparable.
“Many don’t understand that it’s not the beaches and tourist attractions that make Lahaina special — it’s the people, our community and our local culture,”, she said. “So, knowing that there is a plan might give them hope. They’ve already been through so much, and I want them to have one less thing to worry about.”
One Maui hotel executive told me she recently flew to the U.S. mainland to help get the message out that Maui is open.
“I told everyone I met that the island is open and that they should please come. I told them I don’t even care if you stay with us, just come.’”
Yamazaki said it’s important for customers and travel advisors to keep a sense of perspective. He doesn’t want to minimize the pain and destruction and loss of life in Lahaina, but he noted the town is only part of what made Maui such a beloved destination for so many people for so many years.
The shoreline at Wailea Beach Resort on Maui. JIM BYERS PHOTO
“Ka’anapali Resorts were not impacted by the fires,” he said. “Wailea and Kihei were not impacted. If visitors come they can have exactly the same experiences they had before from hotel and resorts. They’re all open. Spas are open. Facilities are open. You just can’t visit Lahaina.
“We’re just waiting for people to come. Whoever they are.”
COMMEMORATIONS AND EVENTS COMING UP
A paddle out event/ocean gathering will be held on the one-year anniversary of the fires at Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park, Lahaina.
A special lunch will be held Aug. 8 in Pukalani for Upcountry Maui residents to gather in recognition of community resiliency during and in the aftermath of the wildfire that impacted Upcountry.
A community gathering will be held at the Lahaina Civic Center on the night of August 8 in reverence of loved ones who perished in the tragedy. Out of respect for the community’s request for sensitivity and dignity, this event is not for media attendance.
Other events will follow, including a gathering of kupuna, or elders, on Friday Aug. 9 at the Lahaina Civic Center, and a musical event after that called Puana Aloha No Lahaina that will feature Maui musicians playing and singing traditional and contemporary songs of Lahaina.
On Sunday, Aug. 11 there will be A Day of Hope and Prayer. Led by faith leaders of churches and temples that were lost in the fire, this interfaith gathering brings forward hope as recovery efforts continue. A worldwide moment of silence will be held at noon.
GENERAL MAUI INFORMATION
https://www.gohawaii.com/islands/maui
LOOK FOR AUTHENTIC HAWAII BUSINESSES
The Hawai‘i Tourism Authority has introduced a program called Qurator, its official mark of excellence for Hawai‘i-based and operating businesses. Qurator serves to guide visitors to Hawaii products and experiences that incorporate responsible tourism practices, while adding value and recognizing those businesses for their positive contributions to the environment, community and economy. “Qurator isn’t just a stamp of approval,” said Mufi Hannemann, HTA board chair. “It speaks to a set of brand values for the Hawaiian Islands, that we care deeply about our land, our people, our culture, and our guests. It’s a recognition of the interdependent relationship between businesses, visitors and our broader local community.”
