Four Days in Maui: Great Hotels and Restaurants + PGA Tour Golf, Family Fun and a Personal Poem

My wife and I recently spent four days on Maui, seeing how things are going in the wake of the devastating Lahaina fires and checking out new (to us) hotels and restaurants.

I’m happy to say that things are moving along, although not at the pace some would hope. New homes are being built in Lahaina, and there’s a new restaurant in the north end of town, where a cluster of waterfront buildings and the Lahaina Cannery Mall escaped the deadly fires.

The second night of our visit, my wife and I ate dinner at the wonderful Star Noodle, which has a new space on the waterfront north of downtown Lahaina. The place was packed on a Friday night, and when we left we could see people milling about and hear the echoes of music from the Old Lahaina Luau next door. Close to the shore, a woman and her child were silhouetted against a deep orange sunset, with the peaceful island of Lana’i in the background.

It was only a minute or two, but it infused us both with a sense of optimism about Maui’s recovery.

With perhaps a few exceptions, all hotels, resorts and restaurants in the Ka’anapali, Honokowai, Kahana, Napili and Kapalua areas of West Maui are fully operational, as are several in north and south Lahaina. The main town of Lahaina will take years to rebuild, of course.

“Maui’s recovery since the Lahaina fire is progressing, albeit slowly,” said Gregg Nelson, General Manager of the Napili Kai Beach Resort, which is roughly 15 minutes from the north end of Lahaina and was never in any fire danger. 

Nelson told Open Jaw that one of Maui’s biggest challenges to tourism recovery are the mixed and confusing messages in the media about the island.

“Many travellers remain unclear as to whether or not they are welcome back to Maui yet,” said Nelson, whose resort is fully open. “I can tell you and anyone considering a vacation here on our island that Maui is very much ready to welcome you back as only Maui can do.”

“The road to recovery is well underway on Maui and we are happy to say that new home construction has started,” said Chef Peter Merriman, who runs several restaurants in West Maui. “Our visitor industry infrastructure is 95% in place and we’re seeing more people return to Maui.”

“As Maui continues its journey of regeneration, our message to Canadian travellers is rooted in aloha and resilience,” said Sherry Duong, Executive Director Maui Visitors & Convention Bureau. “We warmly welcome visitors to experience the island’s unique charm while supporting local businesses and communities.

“In 2025, our efforts will focus on attracting culinary enthusiasts, cultural explorers, and soft adventure seekers. Visitors can immerse themselves in breathtaking natural wonders, discover charming small towns with family-owned shops and eateries, and explore iconic sites like Haleakalā National Park and ʻĪao Valley State Monument,” Duong said. 

“I think it’s time to forget about the ‘recovery’ and ‘we’re open’ angles and just encourage people to come,” one Maui hotel manager told me. “That’s the message now. Just come.”

Later on the second night of our stay, I woke up around 2:30 a.m. and wandered onto our 12th floor balcony at the Aston Mahana resort on Ka’anapali Beach. The sky was ablaze with twinkling lights, and I could feel a warm, soft breeze off the Pacific that rustled the leaves on the darkened palm trees below my feet. For some reason, I felt compelled to write a not particularly great (but very heartfelt) poem:

“Waves roll endlessly under a canopy of stars,

White foam gently thunders and rolls to shore,

There is endless work to be done here, and unending pain still to come,

But there is hope in the ceaseless waves and the twinkling light  from the heavens above.”

I’ve been coming to this dot of land in the Pacific since 1968, and I don’t think there are many places on earth that can match Maui for things to do; everything from silky, golden-sand beaches to fresh, local food, and from scenic drives to sensational sunsets.

Here’s a look at our most recent trip, which included a fine whale-watching tour, a visit to the Sentry golf championship in Kapalua, a first-time visit to the Maui Ocean Center, and a brief walk around fun and funky downtown Wailuku.

Two New Maui Hotels (for us, anyway)

ASTON MAHANA

For this trip, we were put up at the Aston Mahana on north Ka’anapali Beach for our first two nights. We had a lovely one-bedroom unit on the top floor, with fabulous ocean views that included the islands of Lana’i and Molokai. We also had a full kitchen, a dining area and a large patio overlooking the Pacific. The reef comes too close to the sand for comfortable swimming directly in front of the hotel, but there are open spaces for swimming a few yards south or north. The Aston has a nice pool and a large hot tub, as well as bbq grills and shuffleboard. There’s plenty of space for lounging under a towering palm tree, with the blue Pacific just inches away. One advantage is that you’re a very short walk to the food trucks of Honokowai, as well as to several restaurants and shops, and the Times Supermarket.

HYATT REGENCY

We also stayed two nights at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa on the south end of Ka’anapali. It’s a large, stylish hotel with an open atrium, several restaurants and nice shops. The on-site Japengo restaurant is one of my faves on Maui. This time we tried rich Korean seafood pancakes, as well as terrific seafood Yaki Udon noodles. (See more on Japengo in the food/restaurant section below). There are tropical gardens with waterfalls, a waterslide and kids’ water park, brilliant white swans, and a nice main pool. They’re doing extensive renovations around the main pool, so we missed the famous swim-up bar. Other offerings include the Drums of the Pacific luau, and a full spa. The resort also offers mixology classes, free whale information sessions and, from April to September, a “Nashville Nights” program with live country music. Kids will love the display of South African penguins, which get a regular feeding that’s fun to watch. One great offering (extra cost) is the rooftop Tour of the Stars program, where a trained, engaging astronomer will help you use powerful telescopes to gaze at the moon and the stars, and explain a little Hawaiian history at the same time. Again, the swimming here isn’t the best, but a 10-minute walk takes you to the best part of Ka’anapali Beach. There’s also a good swimming area to the east of the hotel at Hanako’o Park. The Ka’anapali Golf Course is a one-minute drive from the hotel, and you’re within walking distance of the Whalers Village outdoor shopping complex on Ka’anapali Beach.

Great Maui Food Options

Ulu Kitchen by Merriman (at the Westin Maui, Ka’anapali)

This a relatively new and stylish spot at the fully renovated Westin Maui Resort and Spa that’s right alongside the Ka’anapalai Beach Walk. We were there in early January and they still had Christmas lights going, which nicely complemented the flickering tiki torches. We had good pork pot stickers with pineapple and habanero marmalade; not too spicy, as well as beautiful mahi mahi crusted with 0rganic acadamia nuts alongside al dente garlic green beans, and also a rich dish of lobster ravioli with lemon brown butter and cherry red, local, grape tomatoes. It’s one of several Maui restaurants run by Hawaiian chef Peter Merriman. Other options include Merriman’s at Kapalua, which has some of the best sunset-viewing spots on the island, as well as Monkeypod Kitchen at Whalers’ Village in Ka’anapali. 

Star Noodle, Lahaina

This long-time Maui favourite was initially located in an industrial area of Lahaina. They moved to the waterfront a few years ago. After the Lahaina fires, they moved north one door to a new, lovely spot right on the water. We couldn’t get a reservation for a Friday night, so we arrived at 5:30 and grabbed two seats at the end of the bar, which has wide windows that look out towards Lana’i and Molokai. The charred Miso butterfish melts before it even gets to your mouth; a rich and creamy delight. The Hapa Ramen was pretty good; the Hot‘n Sour soup outstanding, with chili limed dashi, smoked prosciutto, shrimp, cilantro, Thai basil, bean sprouts and fried garlic.

Sea House Restaurant (Napili Kai Beach Resort)

I’ve been coming here for more than 50 years, and have never been disappointed. We stopped in for appetizers and classic mai tais on our last visit. The ahi poke was lovely, but I was especially impressed with the spicy shrim in tarragon cream with toasted bread. You’ll probably want to inhale this dish. In addition to good food and drinks, the Sea House is just five feet from Napili Beach and offers some of the sunsets you’ll ever see.

The Gazebo Restaurant, Napili Surf Resort

I’ve been to Maui maybe 30-35 times, but somehow this was my first time at The Gazebo. It’s a fun place where people usually line up early for a table, sometimes for 45 minutes. The ocean views are tremendous and the eggs and Portuguese sausage are good. Everyone raves about the macadamia nut pancakes with pineapple and whipped cream, but I found them far too sweet for my taste. And the coffee? Mediocre, at best. I did enjoy the homemade coconut syrup, and the wait staff was friendly. I’m told the fried rice is amazing but it’s not what I like at 7:30 a.m. I haven’t stayed here, but it’s very attractive, low-rise resort at the south end of Napili Beach.

Seascape

The restaurant at the Maui Ocean Center surprised us with very good ahi poke tacos and sizeable birria tacos. It’s a pretty spot that’s open to the elements and has plenty of tropical vegetation and nice views of the Ma’alaea Wharf. Being at the ocean center and all, they serve 100% sustainable seafood, picked daily from boats fresh off the Pacific Ocean. 

Roy’s Ka’anapali

The dining room at Roy’s is a little austere, but they make very good furikake-crisped calamari with Siracha aioli, insanely tender misoyaki butterfish and fall-off-the-bone Szechuan ribs with a Mongolian bbq glaze. Chef Roy Yamaguchi is a Hawaiian treasure, and this is a fine place to eat just north of Lahaina.

Miss Arepa

This is a super casual spot in Honokowai (just north of Ka’anapali) that’s frequented by locals and features South American-style sandwiches on bread that’s like a thick tortilla. I had Hawaiian kalua pork with pineapple and a nice mix of hot sauces for about $13. The sandwich had to weigh close to a half-pound, so this is a great value spot. It’s only a short walk from several north Ka’anapali condo resorts, but it’s a space mostly frequented by locals. 

Coco Deck

This is a new spot across the road from the water in north Lahaina, just across from Mala Ocean Tavern (which is very good). We didn’t think much of the ceviche, but we had a very good smashburger and enjoyed fine views of the water.

Japengo

The area around the restaurant is being remodelled, but we had a nice table with great views of the sun going down over the Pacific Ocean. It’s one of my fave restaurants on the island. This time we enjoyed tremendous Korean seafood pancakes, as well as terrific seafood Yaki Udon noodles, fresh sushi, and Cajun seared Hamachi sashimi.  I also loved the Hokkaido old-fashioned cocktail, with nikka coffey grain whisky, akashi ume “plum” whiskey, Maui vanilla bean syrup, angostura bitters and orange bitters. Japengo is one of the best restaurants I’ve tried on the island.

Other Options

In Honokowai, check out Slappy Cakes, where you can make your own pancakes at your table, as well as Pizza Paradiso, which makes a pretty good pizza and also has Mediterranean sandwiches. The food trucks in Honokowai, just across the road from the Times Market (good value groceries and very good poke), also are a great bet for good, affordable eating. Further north in Napili, check out Joey’s Kitchen for good Filipino/Asian cuisine at modest prices. South of Lahaina, I love the filling lunches at Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop. 

MAUI ACTIVITIES

Maui Ocean Center

I’d passed the Ocean Center dozens of times but never checked it out until this latest trip. It’s a fantastic family spot with excellent displays of everything from sharks and manta rays to diaphanous, pulsing jellyfish and colourful reef fish, including the state fish of Hawai’i, the humuhumunukunukuapua’a. Visitors can learn tons of information about how reefs work and how locals are trying to keep them in good health. Don’t miss the vivid purple and creamsicle-orange growths in the fluorescent reef display, and be sure to check out the exhibit on the sacred Hawaiian island of Kahoolawe. Kids will love seeing the underwater turtle display, and there’s also a small, ocean-themed playground. One of the larger tanks features a diver who goes down to feed hungry fish and more picky sharks, who only like to eat every few days. When we were there, I overhead a guide telling visitors that manta rays are bottom feeders, “kinda like an underwater Rumba.” I like that. Added bonus: visitors do NOT exit through the gift shop. The price for adults is $44.95. Kids cost $34.95.

Whale Watching

We had a great experience on the Teralani catamaran off Ka’anapali Beach. One enormous humpback whale jumped maybe 100 yards in front of us a few minutes after we left the beach, but I wasn’t prepared and didn’t get a photo. We spotted several more breaches and more than a few fins poking out of the water on a brilliant, sunny, 23C day. The Hawaiian humpback whales are born here in winter and go north to Alaska to feed in nutrient-rich waters in summer. They then trek back several thousand miles to frolic in the warm waters of Hawai’i and give birth in an area with no natural predators. The cruise folks offered small muffins and free drinks. Two-hour whale watching tours start at $59.95. They also do snorkel tours, dolphin-spotting tours and romantic sunset sails. 

A Brief Visit to Downtown Wailuku

I’ve always enjoyed my visits to the city of Wailuku, which is just a few minutes from the airport in Kahului and has tons of charm, especially along North Market Street. With a pawn shop and at least one tattoo parlor, no one would confuse it with the Champs-Elysees. But it’s got some fun, casual places and a real sense of community. Lily’s on Main is a women’s clothing shop with bright, breezy scarves, colourful beaded purses, stylish dresses, and more. When I was there a shopper approached the woman behind the counter and said, “Say Happy New Year to your Mom.” I poked my head into one of the art galleries and admired the displays of local paintings. “How’s business?” I asked. “I’m still here,” the woman at the cash register said with a laugh. “The door’s open, and the air conditioning’s on.” Down at the Antique Freak, a delightfully jumbled shop that sells everything from Hawaiian wood carvings to Miles Davis albums and from tiki cups to vintage German pocket knives, the owner tells me he’s been here for 25 years and has an established business that attracts regular customers. We spotted several folks at the food trucks at Market Street and North Vineyard Street, noshing on Thai food and enjoying the shade of a towering banyan tree. Before we left, my wife and I ducked into Wailuku Coffee Company for a couple of terrific coffee lattes. It’s a fun shop that’s carved out of what looks like an old industrial building, and seems to attract a lot of locals. It’s the sort of place I’d like to think I’d frequent regularly if I lived in the area, and it’s the kind of place that really anchors a neighborhood. One way to enjoy downtown Wailuku is to take part in First Friday, when they close off Market Street at 5:30 p.m. for a monthly festival with live music, food and art on display. The natural wonders of the I’ao Valley, including waterfalls, a Japanese garden, impossibly green, sheer mountain walls and banana bread/fresh fruit stands, are just a few minutes up the road. You’re minutes from the airport, but truly a world away.

The Sentry Golf Tournament

The renowned Kapalua Golf Club is home to the first PGA Tour event of the calendar year, the Sentry Championship is mostly open to players who won titles the previous years. That means you’re getting the top players in the world. Even better, you’ll enjoy (mostly) fabulous weather, perfect temperatures and magical views of the Maui coastline, the open ocean, and the beautiful mountains of Molokai in the distance. It’s fairy tale stuff. A tournament of this quality on the mainland would be so packed you could barely move, but the Sentry isn’t remotely crowded. That means you can get up close and very personal with some of the world’s biggest names. Even on the first tee box, you can often stand just five or six feet away from the best golfers on the planet. Word of warning: it’s a VERY hilly course, so don’t forget to bring your stamina. There’s good, local food at the concession stands, including fresh fruit and veggies from local farms.