Great Things to Do and Fab Places to Stay in Australia: Sydney, Great Barrier Reef, Tasmania + More

I’ve been to Australia a half-dozen times, and have been able to enjoy a wide variety of tremendous experiences. Of course, there are lots of things I’ve yet to do, and places I haven’t had the pleasure of seeing.

So, here’s one Down Under lover’s list of nine great places I’ve enjoyed in Australia, and also at some fab places to stay. Okay, and a brief look at a few spots I haven’t been that might spark your interest in a future trip.

LORD HOWE ISLAND

This is a teensy, weensy between Australia and New Zealand. It belongs to the state of New South Wales, but even most Aussies haven’t been there. You’ll find a towering set of cliffs at one end of the island that plunge straight down into a deep blue ocean. There also are tremendous beaches, great hikes and a tiny airport where folks sit at picnic tables while they wait for the next plane to come in. If you want remote, look no further. My two days here in 2010 were two of the best travel days of my life.

HOBART

The capital of Tasmania is a super-cool and still relatively undiscovered city that has a real outdoors feel, but with a super sophisticated food scene. MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art, is an edgy museum that’s partly carved into the rock on the edge of a bay a few miles from downtown. It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen. Take a day trip or a make an overnight visit to beautiful Freycinet National Park for outstanding hiking and beautiful, white sand beaches with crystal-clear waters. The wine scene in Tasmania features lovely, cool-climate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling varieties.

ULURU

To me, if you miss Uluru and the Outback you’re missing the essence of Australia. Formerly known as Ayers Rock, this monolithic, beautiful bit of burnt orange rock in the Australian outback exudes a powerful, mystical presence that’s hard to describe. If you want to feel close to the creator, this is about as fine a place as I’ve ever seen. Be sure to get a tour with an aboriginal guide, and please show respect by not defacing the rock or climbing on it. Don’t miss a visit to nearby Kata Tjuta, an equally impressive but lesser-known bit of rock once known as Mount Olga. When I visited, wispy clouds hovered over the top of the outcropping and nestled into the deep crevasses. It’s a sight I’ll never forget.

ESPERANCE, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

There might not be a prettier set of beaches anywhere in the world than the ones that go on for miles around Esperance, a small town on the south coast of Western Australia. It’s a long drive from Perth, so you’re better off to fly into tiny Esperance Airport and pick up a rental car. The coastline here stretches on just shy of forever, and you’re likely to fall in love with a half-dozen beaches before your first day. One fo the most popular is Lucky Bay, which has blindingly white sand and xxx. Looking for a truly exceptional experience? Try a “Flying Pub Crawl,” which takes you in a small plane to several fun pubs and gives you a bird’s eye view of amazing beaches around Esperance and Cape Le Grand.

VICTORIA WINE COUNTRY

North American wine fans know about the marvelous wineries in the Barossa Valley in South Australia, but the charms of Victoria’s wine country aren’t as well known. Located only a few minutes from downtown Melbourne, the Yarra Valley produces excellent reds, whites and sparkling wines. I love the relaxed atmosphere (bubbles make everything better) at Chandon Australia. I haven’t been, but the views at TarraWarra Vineyards look superb.  While you’re here, check out the animals at Healesville Sanctuary , where you can get up close and personal with kangaroos, koalas, emu, squawking parrots and other exotic (well, to us, anyway) critters.

SYDNEY

There’s a reason this is such a popular, bucket-list city for so many people. You’d be hard-pressed to find many cities that are as beautiful as this one, which hugs a series of bays along a raggedy coastline with indentations and small islands that make it a sailor’s dream. Toss in fabulous food, great nightlife, excellent weather, the sturdy, handsome Harbour Bridge and the impossibly dreamlike Sydney Opera House, and you’ve got yourself one of the world’s best cities. Sign up for an aboriginal tour of the historic Rocks district to learn about the people who lived here for eons before the arrival of white settlers. Take a ride out to Bondi Beach to admire the surf culture. And don’t miss a ferry ride to Manly Beach, where you’ll find a fabulous stretch of sand and a lovely walk that takes you to the protected waters of Shelly Beach.

PERTH

This is a fine city that’s finally starting to get worldwide attention. The city boasts excellent museums and funky neighborhoods such as Northbridge and Fremantle, which has excellent boutiques and coffee shops, and there are spectacular beaches close to downtown, including Cottlesloe. Nick Abraham of Warrang-Bridil leads a wonderful aboriginal experience and tour on the banks of the Swan River. When I visited, we began with a smoke ceremony using local gum tree leaves and a silent prayer. It’s only a short drive to the wineries in the Swan River area, and the rugged coastline and beautiful beaches of Rottnest Island are just a short ferry ride away. BONUS: Rottnest Island is home to a large colony of quokkas; small marsupials that seem to wear a perennial smile and are about the cutest thing ever invented.

FRASER ISLAND

This is a wonderful place to enjoy nature in Queensland. You can get here on a short ferry ride from the casual, seaside town of Hervey Bay, which is about three hours north of Brisbane. Known as K’gari by aboriginal peoples, this is said to be the world’s largest sand island. You’ll find forests with wild dingoes, towering Kauri trees (watch out for large, falling nuts) and a wide, sandy beach that’s home to a cool, massive, rusted out shipwreck. There’s also a small river that winds through the forest and is very popular for inner tubing. The island to a small, mouse-like marsupial called the antechinus. I was told the male of the species lives for a couple years before finding a cute mate and going into a 12 or 14-hour copulating frenzy. After sex, his organs start shutting down, his hair falls out, and then he dies. 

GREAT OCEAN ROAD

Victoria’s 240-km Great Ocean Road is one of the most spectacular drives in the world, a curving stretch of pavement that snakes along the road and takes you past rainforests and towering cliffs west of Melbourne. It’s best known for its spectacular views of the off-shore limestone pillars called The Twelve Apostles. I grew up reading National Geographic magazines by the bucketload, and had seen photos of the apostles. But nothing prepared me for their silent majesty. When my wife and I visited in 2000 after the Sydney Olympics, I had tears welling up in my eyes from just looking at them from a distance. This region of Victoria also gives you a chance to enjoy lighthouse torus and soak in natural hot springs.  There are several cute, small towns along the way, including Wye River and Port Campbell.

BONUS PICKS

The Margaret River wine region is just a couple hours south of Perth and features sensational wineres and gobsmackingly beautiful beaches.

Lady Elliot Island in Queensland has great snorkeling and diving, and is home to a nice eco-resort. It’s the southernmost coral cay on the Great Barrier Reef.

The Freycinet region of Tasmania is only a couple hours from Hobart and features spectacular hikes that reveal lonely, white sand beaches and endless coastal views. The area also is home to very good wineries.

Kalbarri National Park is roughly six hours north of Perth and features towering, coastal cliffs with pretty beaches and deep, blue water. There’s also an inland section with classic orange-red rock Outback scenery. For a dose of adrenaline, try a ride with Kalbarri Quad Bike Safaris.

GREAT PLACES TO STAY

Luxury Lodges of Australia has some of the best options in the country. I was able to spend a night at Longitude 131 near Uluru 10 or 15 years ago and thought it was spectacular, with amazing views of one of the world’s great sights, luxurious rooms, fabulous food, and excellent wine. I haven’t stayed, but Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island in South Australia looks amazing. The Park Hyatt in Sydney is tucked onto a peninsula near the Harbour Bridge and offers spectacular views of the Opera House. We very much enjoyed the trendy W Hotel in Darling Harbour on our last visit. It’s got terrific food, including a killer breakfast buffet, and one of the most spectacular rooftop pools I’ve ever seen. The Ritz-Carlton in Perth is a quiet sanctuary with spacious rooms in Elizabeth Quay. The Tasman is a Luxury Collection Hotel from Marriott in Hobart, with fabulous rooms in an historic building, excellent service and a fine bar.

ON MY LIST

• The Bungle Bungle Range in the Kimberley Region of Western Australia looks 1,000 degrees beyond amazing. Also in Western Australia, the Ningaloo Reef is just a few yards from shore and features amazing wildlife, Further out to sea, you can swim with harmless, massive whale sharks.

 

•  I was in Melbourne for a day in 2000, but haven’t made it back. Another trip along the Great Ocean Road is also top of mind.

 

• I do love a good glass of wine, so I’d be thrilled to spend a couple days in the Barossa Valley in South Australia. I don’t know a lot about Adelaide, but it seems like a nice city surrounded by lovely countryside. I saw recently that some call Adelaide the 20-minute city, because you can reach lovely forests, wineries, and beautiful beaches in just 20 minutes.

 

• I’ve got a hankering to see what Darwin is like. I’m also quite intrigued by the towering, red-orange rocks and sleepy, fresh waters of Nitmiluk Gorge in the Northern Territory.

 

• Given that I covered six Olympic Games in person for the Toronto Star from 2000 to 2010, I’d be quite interested to see how Brisbane is preparing to host the 2032 Summer Olympics.