Northern California Magic: A Guide to Carmel, Monterey, Big Sur and Pacific Grove

ON THE CALIFORNIA COAST – One of the world’s great drives. Sensational food. And a wide mix of places to stay.

The Monterey/Big Sur region of California is one of the most magical destinations on the planet, a “pinch me, I must be dreaming” kind of place that almost defies the imagination with its mix of soft light and rugged beauty.

Here are some highlights from a recent trip from Monterey to Big Sur and back, including visits to the towns of Carmel and Pacific Grove, and a stunning, hillside spot on the coast. I’m also sprinkling in some tips from a place I tend to visit every year or two.

CARMEL TO BIG SUR

I’ve driven Highway One along the northern part of Big Sur several times, but it had probably been 15 years since my last visit. I remembered the coast being quite dramatic between the village of Big Sur and Hearst Castle, but I had forgotten how gobsmackingly beautiful the drive is between Carmel and Big Sur. The road rises and falls and twists and turns along a lonely stretch of coast with hardly a building to be seen. It was almost mid-summer, but I found  brilliant yellow wildflowers that crept within inches of towering cliffs. I lost track of how many times I stopped our car (I was driving a newly obtained convertible I inherited from my father on a perfect, 70-degree day in late July) to snap photos of golden-sand beaches backed by chalky cliffs and Pacific Ocean water in dazzling shades of teal and deep blue.

Like any good tourist, I pulled over to get photos of Bixby Bridge, perhaps the most photographed bridge in California not named The Golden Gate. It’s a majestic piece of architecture that spans a dramatic canyon between Carmel and Big Sur, and it’s a photographer’s dream.

We didn’t have time for Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, which is just south of Carmel, but it’s a place I highly recommend for jaw-dropping coastal walks and, quite often, sea lion or otter viewing.

I’ve never given myself enough time to visit, but the Point Sur Lightstation (it opened in 1889) is a moody bit of architecture that sits high on a point of volcanic rock and feels like a bit of Scotland dropped onto the west coast of the U.S. It’s the only complete, turn-of-the century Lightstation open to the public in California, and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

BIG SUR TO NEPENTHE

As you move further south from Carmel, the road turns inland and passes through towering groves of redwoods. Outwardly charming, casual roadside inns and diners pop up every mile or two as the road swirls through the shady forest. A few minutes south of the five-star (with prices to match) Post Ranch Inn is Nepenthe, a wonderful spot that features two restaurants and one of the most attractive, enjoyable gift shops you’ll find in the Golden State. The upstairs Nepenthe restaurant is the better known of the two, but I’ve always liked stopping at Café Kevah, which has views that are almost as dramatic but a more casual approach. I took my future wife there on her first visit to California in 1980, and we never miss a chance to sip a cappuccino or have a bite to eat on the patio, which features fabulous views of the coastline and the blue Pacific. This time around we sampled a wonderful grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a perfect, super fresh green salad.

The gift shop features everything from books about California to jigsaw puzzles, candles, wind chimes and colourful ceramics. I’m not a shopper, but I almost always find something worth taking home whenever I pop in.

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

This seaside town can be a little on the twee side, not to mention expensive. But the shops and inns are undeniably attractive, and there are plenty of good food and drink options.

On our previous visit, we enjoyed excellent sushi on the patio at Toro restaurant.

We didn’t stop for lunch this time, but we did find a parking spot near the beach and took time to admire the rolling waves crashing onto sugary, white-sand Carmel Beach. Pound for pound, it might be the prettiest beach in the state.

I didn’t know about it for the longest time, but I made sure we took the car for a spin along Scenic Road, a narrow, one-way drive that snakes its way along the coast, passing insanely expensive homes with equally insane beach or coastal views. The road leads to Carmel River State Beach, which is a great spot for a walk, and then winds back into town.

I’ve never stayed there, but my Dad was quite fond of Mission Ranch Hotel and Restaurant, which is owned by Clint Eastwood, a guy he and my Mom went to high school with.

I quite enjoyed our stay at La Playa Carmel a dozen years ago or so. My wife and I stayed at Normandy Inn on our first visit, and it still gets good reviews.

The 17-Mile Drive is a must-do for anyone visiting Carmel. It’ll cost you a few bucks ($12), but it’s the only way to see the famous Lone Cypress, which has been atop a rocky outcropping above the ocean for more than 200 years. It’s also the only way to get some of the best coastal views. You can do the full loop from either Carmel or Pacific Grove, and part of the trip will be through a forested area. I prefer to drive along the coast one-way and then go back the other direction for more coastal exposure. Visit Monterey’s website says the gate fee is reimbursed with a purchase of $35 or more at all Pebble Beach Resorts.

Anyone who loves the game of golf should tee it up at Pebble Beach Golf Links at least once in their lives. You usually have to book two nights at a Pebble Beach Resorts property (often $1,200 a night) and then pay the greens fee ($675 last night I checked), so it’s definitely not for the faint of heart. But if you can afford it, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most majestic golf in the world. The ocean holes are sheer magic and offer incredible ocean and coastal mountain views, sometimes backed by the sound of barking sea lions.

Wine afficionados should head to Carmel Valley, where you’ll find excellent wineries such as Bernardus and Folktale Winery (formerly Chateau Julien), which looks like a Loire Valley chateau.

The Quail Lodge is a terrific place to stay in Carmel Valley.

PACIFIC GROVE

Hardly anyone from outside California seems to know about this small city just west of Monterey and north of Carmel, but I think it’s one of the top towns in all the U.S.

The waterfront is a sensational spot, with breathtakingly beautiful gardens and walking paths that are just steps from Monterey Bay. There are hardly any homes or buildings along the waterfront, so you won’t face obstructed views.

My fave spot to hang out is Lovers Point Park, where you’ll find grass so green it makes the Irish weep, and small, cute-as-a-button ground squirrels burrow into the soft soil and scamper about. There’s a place to rent bikes or kayaks if you want a little exercise. But you can also just walk along the coastal paths and not spend a nickel.

Asilomar State Beach is a great spot for a walk, or to catch the sunset.

Downtown Pacific Grove is super friendly and features fun, casual dining and shopping places. I don’t know that I’d call it upscale, as it’s nothing like Carmel. But it has a lot of charm.

Passionfish is an outstanding restaurant in town that serves sustainable seafood. My wife and I had a remarkable meal there in late July.

If the price of Pebble Beach golf has you feeling a little glum, check out Pacific Grove Golf Links. Nine of the holes are along the Pacific Ocean, and it’s a great little course. Better yet, you don’t have to stay at a posh resort, and the greens fee starts at just $69.

There are several nice B&B’s in town, including the delightful Seven Gables Inn. On our last trip we stayed at the low-key but friendly Sunset Inn. Our room wasn’t fancy, but it was fine, and there’s free juice, coffee and breakfast in the lobby. Management is super friendly and helpful.

MONTEREY

The Monterey Bay Aquarium is rated as one of the best in the world. You’ll find immersive  exhibits that will delight visitors of all ages. Built in what was once a sardine factory on Cannery Row, the aquarium features 35,000 sea creatures, representing more than 550 marine species.  

Cannery Row isn’t quite as colourful as it was when John Steinbeck wrote about it, but it’s a fun place for the family to go for a walk and check out the food and shopping scene. Some of the restaurants have excellent ocean views.

The Monterey Zoo is a great place to see tigers, zebras, rhinos, lions, monkeys, bears and more.

The Presidio of Monterey Museum, which is free, is a great place to learn about local history, including the arrival of Spanish settlers several centuries ago.

Alta Bakery + Cafe is a lovely spot for coffee and is located in the historic Cooper Molera Adobe and gardens. I loved my visit a couple years ago.

Just outside of Monterey is the village of Seaside, home to a locally famous coffee spot called Acme Coffee Roasting Co. We tried to go on our last visit, but the lineup was a tad too long for our liking.