A City On the Rise: Top Things to See and Do in Detroit, Michigan

DETROIT – Once one of the richest cities in the world, Detroit has undergone a tremendous renaissance.

I was in the city last summer for a few days to scout out its suitability for hosting the annual convention of the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW), of which I’m a board member. My SATW colleague and I gave it two thumbs up, and we held our convention there last month.

The city’s tourism board worked tremendously hard and helped us put on a fantastic, successful convention. The locals and volunteers were welcoming and helpful, the weather was perfect and the convention space excellent. Better still, there were great stories at every turn; everything from tremendous local music to new downtown hotels, fine food, and some of the world’s best architecture.

There’s a ton of new building going on downtown, including a glittering office space that will host the head office of General Motors and a glass tower that will be home to an Ian Schrager Edition Hotel. A new Apple store opened on Sept. 19 on Woodward Avenue in the heart of downtown Detroit, with none other than Apple CEO Tim Cook on hand for the occasion.

Here’s a look at some highlights from someone who’s spent 10 days in the city over the past 15 months.

ARTS AND CULTURE

The Detroit Institute of Arts is one of the top museums in the country. You’ll find works from the likes of Monet, Van Gogh and Georgia O’Keeffe, among others. For many, the highlight are the remarkable murals by Diego Rivera, called The Detroit Industry Murals. Astonishing in scope and detail, and, to my mind, one of the greatest works of art anywhere in the world. It’s also an extremely attractive bit of architecture. The institute is just a short drive from downtown, or you can take the QLine streetcar.

A few minutes outside of the city centre, The Henry Ford contains historic Greenfield Village, which has everything from working farms to Model T rides, and also the fabulous Henry Ford Museum of Innovation, where you’ll find not only great, old cars but also the bus that Rosa Parks rode in Montgomery, Alabama when she refused to give up her seat to a white person and move to the back of the bus. Such courage, and such a powerful experience to sit in her seat on the bus. There are also classic cars by the bucketful, as well as US presidential vehicles, science displays, old airplanes and Buckminster Fuller’s circular Dymaxion House.

ICONIC ARCHITECTURE

The restored Michigan Central Train Station is an epic structure that symbolizes the resurrection of this great city. Architecture fans also will love checking out historic downtown buildings, including the ornate Guardian Building with its orange-red exterior bricks and a soaring lobby that features black marble and red Tunisian marble. I was truly gobsmacked by the beauty when I visited.

Our SATW convention included an opening night reception at Kamper’s Rooftop Bar, a bar and restaurant on the 14^th floor of the stunning Book Tower in downtown Detroit that offers up excellent views of many historic buildings. Others I enjoyed checking out were the Penobscot Building and just about any of the structures in and around Capitol Park in the heart of downtown. Be sure to check out some of the cool alleys downtown, including Parkers Alley.

A RIVER REBORN

The Detroit RiverWalk goes on for some 5.5 miles and features lovely views of the Detroit River (and of Windsor, Ontario, just across the border). I quite enjoyed the naturalized areas to the east of downtown, where there’s a small pond surrounded by waving reeds and leafy trees.

As I walked through the area I could hear small frogs jumping into the water. There’s also a nice café and a free carousel, and lots of space for walkers and cyclists. I spotted several people fishing on the banks of the river, as well.

FABULOUS FOOD

I enjoyed several exquisite meals during my recent visit, including  Kamper’s and Hiroki-San, which makes excellent cocktails as well as fine Japanese dishes. I sampled some great Mexican food from Vecino, and good tacos and mac & cheese at Union Assembly. The latter spot also is home to Mom’s Spaghetti, where you can taste the pasta and sauce made famous by local singer/songwriter Eminem. The guacamole and chips were excellent at Gilly’s, an upscale downtown sports bar with tons of TV’s and a sunny rooftop patio. The prettiest restaurant we visited, and one of the most tasty, was Sexy Steak. It seems like an odd name at first blush, but it’s a very stylish spot downtown with splendid food and perfect steaks.

If you’re looking for something simpler, you can’t beat Buddy’s Pizza for Detroit-style pizza. It’s more deep dish than thin crust, but it comes in a square pan with super-crispy edges. I say the corner pieces go to whoever pays the bill. Hockeytown is a popular sports bar across the street from Comerica Park, home of the Major League Baseball Detroit Tigers. Head to the roof for comfy seats and a nice view of the ballpark and city skyline. I had good vindaloo chicken at Charminar Biryani. Don’t miss a visit to delightful, old-school Lafayette Coney Island for a Detroit-style coney dog, served with chili, mustard and onions. It’s just $4.35, and that’s tough to beat in today’s world. The pastries and coffee at Cannelle by Matthew Knies are to die for. On the west side of Capitol Park, check out Eatori for fine cocktails and a nice patio.

MOTOWN MUSEUM

If you’re a fan of great music, the Motown Museum will blow you away. Legendary music guy Berry Gordy formed Motown Records in 1960, then quickly signed such incredible local talent as The Supremes, Marvin Gaye, The Temptations and Smokey Robinson. I don’t know what they were putting in the water in Detroit in the early 1960s, but I don’t think any city in the world has ever produced such world-class talent in such a short period of time.

The Motown Museum, which is undergoing a major expansion that’s due to open next year, is a fabulous place to learn about the history. We were treated to a find, 16-minute film that talked about how the Detroit/Motown sound was so much more upbeat and pop-oriented than the blues music favoured by many musicians at the time. We also got to check out informative displays and fun photos of Motown starts. At the end, our group got to check out the original basement recording studio where some of the label’s biggest hits were recorded, and even got to belt out a group version of The Temptations’ “My Girl.”

THE ROSE ESTATE

Public tours only take place once a month, but this long-time home of Aretha Franklin is a beauty. Located alongside the Detroit Golf Club in suburban Deerfield, it’s a glorious home that’s been almost fully restored after falling into severe neglect. The bright red bathtub in Franklin’s upstairs bathroom is a highlight for many visitors, but I was blown away by the massive kitchen and the deep blue cabinets. Look for cool art on the walls, including a painting of Martin Luther King Jr..

The back garden is gorgeous and backs onto the golf club, which also is being renovated. Franklin hosted legendary parties in the house, which has 28-foot ceilings. The house was once the home of Patricia Hall Burnett, a Detroit socialite who was very active in the women’s rights movement and became a highly successful portrait artist. The story goes that strangers had to call The Queen of Soul “Miss Franklin,” but it’s also said she was often found mixing with locals at a nearby Kroger’s grocery store.

A SPORTING MECCA

Detroit is one of the best sports towns in North America. A tour guide told me it’s the only city in North America with downtown Major League Baseball, National Football League, National Basketball Association and National Hockey League stadium/arenas. I haven’t been to Comerica Park to see the Tigers play, but I walked around the outside of the stadium, and it looks terrific. My two sons and I took in a Lions game at Ford Field (where Detroit trounced the rival Chicago Bears) and loved it.

It’s an indoor stadium but there are large glass panels to let in the light, so it doesn’t feel claustrophobic. Ford Field is just a few feet from Comerica Park, and the area is littered with sports bars and dining places. We enjoyed beers among a sea of Lions fans at Elwood Bar and Grill, which is just steps from both facilities. Little Caesars Arena, home to the NBA Detroit Pistons and NHL Detroit Red Wings, is a just a couple blocks from Comerica Park.

WHERE TO STAY

The Westin Book Cadillac Hotel is housed in a beautiful, historic building in the heart of downtown. Rooms are quite good-sized and well appointed, although I would’ve liked a better coffee maker. There’s a very good convention space, and the lobby bar makes a very good old-fashioned cocktail. The Detroit Foundation Hotel is a stylish boutique property across the road from the convention center. It’s housed in an old fire station and has tons of atmosphere. There’s a nice restaurant just off the lobby.

I didn’t stay there, but my boys spent the night at the Sonder, an apartment-style hotel kitty corner from the Westin. The rooms were quite large, and they paid less than $300 for a one-bedroom unit with a sofa bed. I didn’t stay there but I had a short tour of the lobby of the Shinola Hotel, which is located in five historic buildings on Woodward Avenue. It’s one of the most striking hotels I’ve seen anywhere in the world; artsy and stylish, and with a working, wood-burning fireplace. The Shinola shop has gorgeous watches, notebooks and other gifts. A new JW Marriott is under construction alongside the city’s convention center. It’s being built on the site of the former Joe Louis Arena and will offer spectacular river views.