RICE LAKE, ONTARIO – It was maybe a quarter to 7 a.m. on our first morning at Elmhirst’s Resort. We were in a lovely, second floor loft at a lovely cottage overlooking Rice Lake, and I woke up to see a soft, orange light glowing in the sky.
Not being one to miss a good sunrise, I threw on a t-shirt and some flip-flops, grabbed my cell phone and scampered down to the dock in front of our cottage.
I could hear some distant Canada Geese welcoming the morning with their familiar honks as I stepped out onto the dock and gazed up at a rainbow sherbet sky with layers of deep pink and orange. There was barely a ripple on the water, and the leaves on the trees hadn’t begun to whisper their greetings to the coming day.
I remained on the dock long enough to get a couple photos and shoot a quick video, then walked a few steps up a small incline to the cottage, where I climbed back into bed for a post-photography snooze.
An hour later I was in the kitchen, sipping on my first coffee of the day. A surprisingly strong, September sun was shooting sparkles of gold light out on the lake; a view framed by deep green maples and fir trees.
We had visited Elmhirst’s Resort a few years ago while on assignment for Peterborough-Kawarthas tourism and quite enjoyed it. This time it was a real vacation; a chance to get away from the city and enjoy the tranquility of a lakeside resort in southern Ontario in early fall.
Sunrise over Rice Lake at Elmhirst’s Resort. Jim Byers Photo
I’m happy to say I loved it even more on our second go-around. The cottage was terrific; the setting superb; the food as good as I remembered, and the general feel of the place just as warm and welcoming. We also got to try the spa this time.
Here’s a look at the resort, which has been in the Elmhirst family for five generations.
THE COTTAGES
Elmhirst’s Resort offers a variety of cottages (30 in all) in various sizes, ranging from one to four bedrooms. All feature spacious patios facing Rice Lake, as well as full kitchens and a gas BBQ. All units front a pretty lawn that leads to a private dock on Rice Lake; a great feature for sunrises or sunsets, or for a little fishing.
We stayed in Cottage 10, which has two bedrooms on the main floor and a lovely loft with a nice, king-sized bed. The upstairs bathroom has a claw tub in front of a window, so you can gaze out at the lake while you bathe. We were told the unit was recently renovated, and it definitely shows. Cottage 10 has wood floors, white, wood slat walls and comfy furniture that that gives it a rustic but elevated look. There’s a very nice breakfast nook that includes a pew from a local church, as well as a large sofa and two chairs. The unit has a big screen TV (great for the big game) and an electric fireplace. The deck was quite large and featured two chairs and a lounger. Below the deck was a picnic table for al fresco dining and two white Muskoka chairs. We didn’t have a ton of cooking gear in our cottage, but it was fine.
Cottage 10 at Elmhirst’s Resort. Jim Byers Photo
Cottage 10 is only a one-minute walk to the main lodge, where you’ll find the dining room, the indoor pool, the spa and the onsite pub.
Some of the cottages are accessible.
THE ACTIVITIES
This is a year-round, Kawarthas region resort that can truly be enjoyed in every season.
There’s a pretty walk along the lake that’s great for a morning or evening stroll, with nice lake views and towering trees and wildflowers in brilliant yellow and pale pink. They also have 15 km’s of walking trails through pretty woods and forests.
There are two children’s playgrounds, as well as tennis, pickleball and basketball courts and a beach volleyball setup. Don’t worry if you didn’t bring your equipment, as the main lodge has racquets and balls you can use. They also have free canoes, kayaks and paddleboards. You can also arrange an onsite boat rental. The resort has free bikes so you can roam around the expansive property or check out nearby cottages and farmhouses set on pretty, rolling terrain.
Our lake view from Cottage 10 at Elmhirst’s Resort in southern Ontario. Jim Byers Photo
There is a small beach near the main lodge, but Rice Lake is known for being a little reedy. If you want a swim, you’re probably better off to use the outdoor pool (seasonal, of course), or the large, indoor pool. There’s also a dry sauna and a nice, indoor hot tub and a gym/health club.
One cool feature are the seaplanes docked near the eastern end of the property. Seaplane rides (they’d be spectacular in the fall) are $170+HST for 15 minutes (up to two passengers).
They have a fine spot for weddings overlooking the lake. The resort also can accommodate conferences and corporate retreats.
THE SPA
The spa at Elmhirst’s Resort. Photo courtesy Elmhirst’s Resort.
I had a very nice massage when I visited, including oil infused with apricot. My wife had the seasonal, organic custom facial and raved about it. They also do body treatments, pedicures, lash extensions, waxing and more. The spa features Eminence products, including organic skin care products from Hungary, a strawberry rhubarb hydrator and Neroli age corrective eye serum. Spa packages include a Book Club weekend and Fall Yoga Retreat Weekends.
THE FOOD
The Hearthside Dining Room at Elmhirst’s Resort in southern Ontario. Photo courtesy Elmhirst’s Resort.
The Hearthside Dining Room has lovely lake views and offers a variety of dishes. We had a very good duck carbonara and a surprising pickerel dish with Dhaka spices, local, fresh tomatoes and a lime crème fraiche at dinner one night. The dinner menu also includes local beef, coconut shrimp, turkey parmigiana and salads. They have an extensive, varied, all-Ontario wine list with a huge cellar. They raise their own cattle for beef and have chickens for laying eggs. There’s a small garden that supplies fresh veggies, and they have a chef making their pastries in-house. The dining room has an excellent Sunday brunch that’s $39.95 for adults and $24.95 for kids under 12. They also serve lunch and breakfast.
The Wild Blue Yonder Pub & Patio is a fine place for a casual meal or to watch the big game over a beer. The pub hosts a Saturday night roast beef dinner with all the fixings, including salad, seasonal veggies, mashed potatoes and dessert. It costs just $39 for adults and $20 for kids.
THE LOCATION
An aerial view of Elmhirst’s Resort on Rice Lake. Photo Courtesy Elmhirst’s Resort.
Elmhirst’s Resort is about 90 minutes from Yonge and Highway 401 and about 25 minutes southeast of Peterborough, which is home to the fabulous Canadian Canoe Museum. The waterfront town of Lakefield is also about 25 minutes from the resort.
The nearest good grocery store I found was in Hastings, about 15 minutes east.
I didn’t get to try it, but there’s a nice looking place in Keene called Muddy’s Pit BBQ. It’s less than 10 minutes from Elmhirst’s.
Warsaw Caves Conservation Area is a fine place for a hike. It’s about 25 minutes north of the resort.
The nearby town of Millbrook is delightful. They have great treats and coffee at The Peddler, which has been given a shiny makeover.
If you’re coming from the GTA, stop in at Doo Doo’s in Bailieboro for award-winning butter tarts.
